Well, how to line these darn things with the fly zipper….
Just a side note: I am not using the facings as per Burda, but am following Making Trousers idea that petersham ribbon (or grosgrain ribbon) is a thin and excellently stable material for either interfacing or actually BEING the waistband facing on trousers. It makes lovely and simple sense to me, so I’m going to be facing these trousers with petersham.
But that still leaves the “how to line trousers with a fly zipper and a zipper shield” question. Well, here’s what I did.
NOTE: I have not stitched up the centre back seam at this point.
Trim the fly facing from the LF lining, mark and staystitch the curved stitching line on the RF lining. Staystitch and clip the RF lining, turning and pressing in the seam allowance on both RF and LF openings.
Turn the facings right side out and press.
Staystitch the waist.
Try on pants for fitting through the waist, making any adjustments as needed and marking the centre back seam allowance. Then stitch 1 or 1.5 inch wide petersham to the waist. The top of the petersham will sit just under the staystitching.
Sew up the lining. I didn’t bother drafting my own seamless lining for the trouser fronts. I used the same two-piece fronts as the fashion fabric. And, because I hate bemberg strings everywhere, I serged the pants seams.
Staystitch and turn in the waist seam allowance on the lining. Press. Pin baste to the top of the waistband (petersham ribbon).
Fell stitch into place.
Zip up the zipper, lay the pants flat inside out and pin the linings to the fly opening.
Fell stitch into place. I left the fly shield loose and stitched the lining securely underneath it. You can tack it into place at the bottom of the fly opening and fell the lining over the end of the fly shield if you wish. I may do this next time, but this is what I did for this particular pair of trousers. Here’s the fly zipper finished, exterior and interior shots.
Last, but not least, I sewed through all layers – lining, petersham and fabric – at both back darts, side seams and side front seams to ensure the lining stays in place while being worn.
Well, that’s how I lined these pants! Now I have to hem them, decide on a button or hook/eye closure and take some pictures of me wearing them so you can see the fit on someone that is not as tall as a Burda model.
There’s a lot of hand sewing putting the lining in like this. If I didn’t care so much about not seeing seam allowances from the inside, I would have done this very differently…. maybe next time. I’m happy with the finished interior look of these pants!