Pattern Description: Top # 102B from Burda’s February 2011 Mamma Mia! collection in sizes 36 -44
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes – 100%.
Were the instructions easy to follow? I had no difficulty following the directions of this pattern, however, I can see where people who are just starting out on their sewing journey could be VERY confused with the directions for the construction of the bodice. The bodice is self-lined, and there is no CB seam, so my usual trick for lining a sleeveless bodice was out of the question. So I thought I’d give Burda’s instructions a try. I must say I really liked their technique. Here’s a summary:
- Pin lining pieces to respective upper front and back pieces.
- Stitch neck and armhole edges, beginning and ending 2 cm (3/4 inch) below shoulder seam line.
- Trim seam allowances, clipping curves.
- Turn FRONT right side out.
- Push front shoulder edges up through bottom of back to open shoulder seams of back. Right fabric sides of front and back should meet at shoulder seams.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front and back pieces, and the shoulder seams of the lining.
- Pull front further up through the shoulder seams, press shoulder seams open.
- Matching lining and outer fabrics up, stitch remaining armhole and neckline seams.
- Pull front down out of back shoulder edges and the lining will turn itself to the inside.
- Press neck edge.
I’m sorry I didn’t photograph this as I went along. If I make this top up again I’ll document it in photos so you can see the process. It worked surprisingly well, and is a little trick I’ll file for future reference.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really liked the neckline and the the cap sleeves on this pattern.
Fabric Used: Rayon-lycra knit from Chico’s, purchased from EmmaOneSock
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did do an FBA for this pattern, as I wanted the bodice to sit properly under the bust line. Nothing irritates me more than an empire waist riding high. I measured and cut the size Burda recommended. BIG MISTAKE. I should have cut a size smaller with the knit. I’m starting to figure out Burda’s sizing, slowly but surely. This top ran big – I took in a total of 4 inches at the sides to get this to fit, and it still fits very loosely through the bust. You can see from the back photo, too, that I should have done a short-waist adjustment through the upper part of the bodice. The fabric gathers just above my waist, and it gapes at the back neckline when I throw my shoulders back and stand up straight. It fits fine if I slouch, though!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would definitely sew this again. The style is a keeper. I’m considering this version a “wearable muslin”, since I’ll need to tweak it next time to get it perfect.
Conclusion: A cute little top that’s going to get a lot of wear! As a style note, I think, because it’s so short – the hemline sits about 2 inches below my natural waist – it would look best with a pencil skirt.