Burda 9-2010-110 and 111 – again!

Well, I’ve been determinedly trying to use my stash, and have made some new blouses.  I don’t have many blouses or shirts in my wardrobe.  I used to in a different life, but I guess with the SAHM thing happening, I’ve preferred knit tops over the years, and RTW ones at that.  However, I have always had plans for this or that top with this or that piece of fabric, and have accumulated numerous tops over the years, all of them in an unmade state.  This top from Burda’s September 2010 issue has seen a lot of versions in my sewing room, but this is the first time I’ve made up the sleeveless one. B 9-2010-110 front The fabric is a dotty silk charmeuse.  The first time I made up this top I used a knit, and the fit was very pleasing.  The second version was a woven, and it didn’t fit so well.  In fact, it’s no longer living in my house.  So for this version I measure twice and cut once.  I’m happy with the sleeveless version.  It will be perfect under all the jackets that I have (unmade) in my wardrobe.  However, I didn’t really notice this for my knit version, but the shoulders are very wide – almost dropped.  I had to take out 5 cm or 2 inches of width in the shoulder seam so that the armscye ended where my shoulders began.    B 9-2010-111B front view

And I made another long sleeved version of this.  The fabric is a silk habotai, and I fell in love with all the colours and purchased this roll end from EOS some time ago.  I wasn’t actually sure what to do with it, or if this pattern could be eked out of the 1.25 metres of fabric that I had.  I did change up the grain.  You’ll notice in the sleeveless version that the crossover is on the bias.  I couldn’t do that with this print because I just didn’t have enough fabric.  I also wanted very much to have the pattern match e.x.a.c.t.l.y., but I’m about 10 cm off on the front because I didn’t have enough of the pattern repeat.  But it’s not too bad, although it’s not perfect, and I think no one will notice unless they look very closely.  The front wraps rather closely because the facing edge is on the straight grain instead of the bias.  The neckline sits higher as a result, but I’m OK with that.  I did manage to have the back encompass one complete motif (there were about 5 to choose from!) and the sleeves are identical, too.B 9-2010-111B back 2

I didn’t take out the drop shoulder as I did for the sleeveless version – I didn’t care about it that much for this blouse.  I widened the sleeves by about 3 inches for the last 20 inches from the sleeve edge.  The bottom 12 inches or so of the sleeve are gathered, and fit very tightly.  This was a problem I remembered from my first woven version, so I added the width this time.  I also left off the ties because they are always in the way, even if you’re just wearing the blouse out for dinner!  They drag through everything.  I used one line of elastic thread and shirred the bottom 18 inches of the sleeves.  This is about 9 inches more than the pattern calls for, but I wanted the gathers to be evenly distributed from my elbow to the wrist instead of all bunched up around my wrist.

I’m pretty pleased with this blouse!  My DH’s opinion: “That’s a LOUD piece of fabric!”B 9-2010-111B

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12 thoughts on “Burda 9-2010-110 and 111 – again!

  1. These are two really beautiful tops! I’m so impressed that you have achieved two very different yet equally lovely looks from the same pattern.

  2. That is definitely a great pattern because it can be used with woven and knits, with sleeves or without, and always looks wonderful. You used the large motif fabric so successfully. I admire those large prints and buy them, but when it comes to using them, I get layout paralysis.

    1. Thank you so much for your kind comments! You are one of the last people I would have thought would get layout paralysis, as the prints you’ve blogged about are so successfully done!

  3. These are great – I love both and especially the wonderful LOUD fabric of the long sleeved version. I’ve just bought a lovely slinky slippery silk and you’ve given me a great way to use it. Thanks for the inspiration.

    I’m really keen to make it in knit too, as kathi mentioned.

  4. A quick glance would not indicate that these are the same pattern. They are both so individual, and I love both of them. How clever of you to get the entire motif on the back of the second shirt, and to match the sleeves.

    I am sewing a blouse also. Where will I wear it? Someone will have to invite me out to dinner I guess 🙂

  5. Lovely blouses. I have been eyeing this pattern for a while now. I’m confused when Burda has 2 versions of the same pattern. One is made in a knit and the other is in a woven. I ask myself “can this really be true”? I guess it is.
    I hope I find time in the very near future to give this blouse a try. My only decision now it whether to use a knit or a woven.
    I really enjoy your posts.

    1. Thanks, Kathi! I really like this pattern – it has few fitting issues! And it IS rather surprising that several Burda patterns can be made up in both a knit or a woven. But I guess this is true of a lot of patterns as we get better quality knits and learn how to use them well.

  6. Oooh, I really like the short sleeved version. The fabric looks really…rich! Your comment about wearing a lot of knit tops as a SAHM really hit home with me. I am definitely in the same camp. The long sleeve version is good too, the busy print makes it seem more casual. Because the print is so wild, it’s hard to notice any imperfections in pattern placement, anyway.

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