Tutorial: Bound Buttonholes – Organza Patch Method

*picture heavy post*  I thought I’d post a tute on the method I used for the bound buttonholes I’m using on the jacket-on-request.  The wool I’m using is a beautiful black, taupe, grey and white suit weight wool, and it loves to unravel.  Problem!  This method is perfect for ravelly fabrics and it’s the easiest method I’ve found to make identical near-perfect bound buttonholes.  Sherry of pattern, scissors, cloth has posted an identical tutorial with a bulky mohair fabric.  But I’ll confess I have a fear of doing finicky details like bound buttonholes on finer fabrics like suiting and thought I’d post this anyways.

measurementMark and measure your buttonholes accurately.  Mine will be 6mm wide.   Cut squares of silk organza 1.5 inches wider and longer than your intended buttonhole.organza squares

On the RIGHT side, centre the organza patches over the buttonhole markings and baste through the centre of the buttonhole. Measure and measure again to ensure accuracy! basted organza squares From the WRONG side, carefully stitch along your markings using a very small stitch.  Begin and end in the middle of the buttonhole, not at a corner.stitching Measure and measure again for accuracy!measure again

Remove the centre basting…remove basting

… and slash through the centre of the buttonhole to within 3mm of the ends, clipping diagonally to the corners.  Eck-zact-ly to the corners, because one unsnipped thread will throw off the symmetry of the corners.slash

Pull the organza patches through to the wrong sidepull organza through

Press flat so the edges are clean.R side

Here’s my finished three openings.3 buttonholesAnd from the wrong side, it looks neat and tidy, too!wrong sideCut TWO squares of fabric for each buttonhole and baste them down the middle.  This will form the edges of the buttonhole opening. I wanted mine to form chevrons, so I basted them diagonally.stitched diagonally Press them open. pressed open   Align the centre of the basted squares so that they line up through the centre of the buttonhole opening.aligning placement Pin or hand tack into place along the long edges.pin bastingFrom the wrong side, stitch across on end of the buttonhole through all thicknesses, keeping the front free.  Extend the stitching 1/4 inch past the buttonhole.  Check after stitching each end to ensure accuracy.

stitch endsTurn back the organza patch and stitch along the top and bottom sides of the buttonholes.stitch sides Finished buttonhole from the front.finished And the back, prior to trimming threads and excess fabric.finished wrong side Here’s my three buttonholes.finished 3 And the inside view.reverse The middle one is uneven, as you can see from the back…middle …and the front.  So I will redo this one.middle uneven And now it’s acceptable!new middle

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17 thoughts on “Tutorial: Bound Buttonholes – Organza Patch Method

  1. Amazing! Thank you for showing this! I have yet to try bound button holes but I definitely want to do them SOON, as I love jackets and I’m dying to try my hand at one ^__^ These look awesome! 🙂

  2. Oh wow thanks for posting this though I suspect it will be bookmarked for a while before I brush up my courage and skills to put it to the test, as it were. Hell, at the moment I’m lucky to get a zipper to sit flat. LOL.

  3. They are beautiful!
    Thanks for sharing your technique.
    I am slowly become less fearful of bound buttonholes th ask to tutorials like this. I might even make them one day in the future..

  4. Those are impressive! and detailed! I’ve never tried something like that. In fact, I really haven’t even seen a pattern for that (If you can’t tell, I don’t dress up very often!) That said, if I ever encounter such an animal, I’m glad you’ve shown how to tame it. Well done!

    1. I know what you mean! My first bound buttonhole was made eons ago on a tweed jacket, and I never tried one again until I made these. Believe me, I spent an entire afternoon doing samples…. *cross-eyed*

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