Burda 7579

B 7579 side

This is the finished jacket that I did my bound buttonholes for, based on Burda 7579.  I made it up on request out of the most lovely wool.  It was a perfect marriage of fabric and pattern, let me tell you.  A complete and utter pleasure to sew.  The suit has a matching pencil skirt, quite pegged, with a CB hemline slit, which I pulled from a vintage Lagerfeld pattern in my stash.  It’s a beautiful ensemble and fits perfectly (although I can’t say that for Vintage Judy in these photos).

B 7579 welts pocketThe jacket has been shortened by about 2 inches.  I was a bit worried about the proportion/placement of the pockets, which also have flaps, on the shorter version but it’s working nicely when the flaps are tucked in.   So I’m leaving them tucked in.  I did the pocket welts on the bias for consistency’s sake since the buttonholes are bias, too, never mind that they just looked waaaay better done on the bias that either straight or cross grain.  The picture below is before shortening the jacket.

welt pocketsThe jacket doesn’t fit Vintage Judy well at all as very evident in this photo, and it desperately needs to be pressed, but isn’t the back belt a nice detail?  The buttons were quite heavy, so I tacked them through all layers to support them.  I raised the collar stand by 5/8″ to order because it needed to sit a bit higher, and re-drafted the collar shape itself so that it could be tacked and stand up.B 7579 back

As you all know, if you’ve been reading posts lately, I am not a patternmaker or tweaker or draper or any such “er” (although I can sew reasonably well, even if I do say so myself) and the little change to this collar put me into a problem-solving line-drawing tailspin for a bit.  And then I leafed through the September Vogue and found this lovely little Chanel number.chanel 2012 jacketWhich gave me visual directions for my little change on the collar.  B 7579 collarIt worked nicely and was easy to do (thank God!).  And, if I can ever get my sewing queue organized, gave me an idea for an almost identical tweed in my stash….  But haven’t you heard that before?  I have loads of pattern/fabric marriages to make official, but never get around to 99% of them…..

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20 thoughts on “Burda 7579

  1. I really love your jacket and think that the collar innovation is ideal for someone like me with a long neck. As I am not sure that I would be able to replicate this beautiful feature on my own, would you be willing to detail the construction process of this unique aspect?

    1. Hi, Dagmar! Thanks for visiting my blog! I will try to post pics of how I modified the collar, but the short version goes something like this: I changed the curved corner/edge of the collar to a straight edge (square corner) that would fold down over itself. Then I marked the edge of the collar so that it would fold over and sit 1/8″ lower than the bottom of the collar stand in the back, and to meet exactly the roll line at the very top of the lapel (where the collar meets the lapel). I’m absolutely horrible at sewing-ease language to explain something, which is why I was SO happy to find the picture of the Chanel jacket – it visually explained what I had thought in my mind what I needed to do.

      1. I’m getting dizzy flipping between the picture of your collar and the Chanel collar! I’m guessing that you tacked your collar points permanently to ensure they stay in place and to make the collar roll retain its shape. Also, your collar appears to be more attached ( attached at its base) to the lapel than the Chanel model which seems to be unattached to the lapel. On the Chanel the collar falls towards the neck and appears to lay more horizontally if that makes sense… I would love any further detail you can give as I can’t stop myself drooling every time I study it!

  2. Hooray, wordpress is letting me leave a comment on your blog for once! I’m so glad it relented for this particular post, because your jacket is stunning. I love what you did with the collar.

  3. That collar is really lovely and the jacket itself beautiful. I do like the belt detail and double vent at the back – all in all very chic. I do hope you are going to be sewing for yourself too soon?

  4. Beautifully made!!! It has been a pleasure to read your blogs and get so many tips regarding this jacket. I haven’t made a jacket for ages and although I have Burda 109 3/2012 cut out and ready to sew, it is not in the league of this beautiful jacket of yours. I think I may give another lapelled jacket a go now as you have inspired me.

  5. So beautiful. It is a work of art. I love your collar.
    As far as projects go. I just made a dress from the winter 2010 issue of My Image. It took me this long to get to it.

  6. OMG, this is the best jacket I have ever seen. It is incredible, the fabric is perfect for the style…and the detail work is wonderful. Really nice and very inspiring to me.

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