I’m working on the first of my SWAP pieces, Vogue 1324, out of a lovely suit-weight wine coloured wool. I’ll review it properly later with decent pics, but I just wanted to post about something that’s been bothering the back of my mind for a couple of years now.
I am not symmetrical. I mean, no one is, and I know that in my head, but it’s never been at the forefront of my thinking, particularly as it relates to sewing. I have recently become aware that my jeans and trousers shift left throughout the day as I’m wearing them. If you were to take a rear photo at any given moment, you’d see that the CB seams were pulling left. The first time I became aware of this I thought to myself, “I bet I measure more on the left side, CB to CF, than I do on the right side. Perhaps I should find out and adjust patterns accordingly.” And I’ve left it at that until now. But it’s bothering me, mostly because I saw my physiotherapist last week and she mentioned that I have a bit of scoliosis in my lower back. *!?!?!* Light bulb moment. And, of course, now that I’ve cut a couple of SWAP garments, I’m obsessing about it and dissatisfied with my otherwise just-fine-thank-you sewing results.
This picture below looks like I’m bending slightly at the knees, getting ready to sit down. I assure you that I am standing up as straight as I normally do on a daily basis. This is just another issue I’ve become aware of lately: my front waistbands want to sit about 1 inch lower than my back waistbands. They fall forward, although they are sitting at my waist level properly. Which means my waist does not sit level in a carpenter’s level sense of the word. See?
These photos were taken while my camera was sitting, hip level, on my ironing board, so the angle is dead straight. And the hem is longer in the front, too. It’s worse on the left side.
In a nutshell, what needs to happen? This is BOTHERING ME because a garment should hang straight, damn it, and this skirt is not hanging straight. Don’t worry – I love this skirt, I have no plans to unpick rows and rows of edge stitching and topstitching, and I’ll be happy to wear it because I’m sure it’s not going to be noticeable to anyone who sees it walking around on me. But I’m just thinking about future projects and my type A perfectionist streak is throwing tantrums looking at these pictures, demanding that my sewing meet something close to the custom-fit-couture “level & straight” standards, y’know?
My first thoughts: I need to take a wedge about 1″ deep from the CF, tapering to nothing at the sides. Not fun on a multi-pieced skirt like this one. That would eliminate the excess fabric at the crotch level that makes it look like I’m just going to sit down, and straighten up the grain which would straighten up the hemline by default.
The other thing I think I need to do is make a high-hip adjustment on the left side of my patterns by adding about 1/2″ to the side seam depth. Or, conversely, to fold that amount out through the hip line on the right side and taper it out to the CF and CB.
What do you think? Do picky little things like this bother you, too? And let’s not get started thinking about proportion, because that would send me over the edge at this point.