So, after not doing anything with Marfy 1401 but letting it percolate in the back of my mind, I’ve come to the conclusion that I like the idea of that coat, but I don’t really like the idea of that coat in my life. Why? Well, simply put, I like… no…. LOVE the collar, but I just don’t need a long swing coat in my wardrobe. If I need to dress up and it’s cold, I’ve got choices. I could have played the Marfy down with the wool plaid, but in reality, I just want a casual coat that I can throw on and run errands in that isn’t a ski jacket. Now, I hear you all. Yes, I could have shortened the Marfy pattern, but I didn’t want to for some inexplicable reason. I’m sorry to disappoint, but the Marfy Lab Coat project is officially dead. So I went mentally wandering through my patterns for something else.
Enter BurdaStyle’s November 2010 issue, #133. It’s got bands, pockets and is a big, casual design with no fussing. Win! I chose this pattern because I liked the idea of bias bands with this plaid. The fabric is wonderful. It was a thrift store find a couple of winters ago that was originally intended to be a maxi skirt, but it was a bit on the heavy side, and so languished in stash until now. I washed and dried it in the dryer about 3 times to get it to felt a little bit. The process added the weight I wanted. The coat is not lined, but I lined mine with kasha lining. I made no adjustments other than sleeve length, although I did change up the construction a bit.
The first big change I made was to cut strips of bias for the bands and forget about Burda’s pattern. I cut them 10.5 cm wide and washed them again to fray the edges a bit. My idea was to overlay the edges of the coat itself and topstitch them into place rather than encasing the band between the coat and lining. I wanted the casual frayed edge. I did not interface the bands.
I measured 3 cm in from the edge of the coat and laid the inner edge of the top band along the markings. There was a lot of easing and shrinking to do at the curved front bottom edges. Once the top band was basted into place, I laid the band facing in place (wrong sides together) matching up the outer edges of the facing and band and topstitched them together. Then I stitched through all thicknesses to attach both layers to the coat itself. I really like how it looks.
I liked the idea of topstitching the pocket to the front, so I did that. And I wanted a rolled-back cuff look but without actually having to roll the cuffs back. The sleeves were long on me without the cuffs attached, so I trimmed about 4 cm and machine stitched the lining in place.
Then I stitched the cuffs and cuff facings together around the edges like I did the bands. I folded them in half and stitched the edges together like a French cuff and laid the entire cuff over top of the sleeve.
Needless to say, that’s a lot of layers, so I used a fell stitch to attach the cuff to the outside of the sleeve, and then a long back stitch on the inside to attach the edge of the sleeve to the cuff. The cuffs extend past the sleeve edge by about 4 cm.
It thoroughly snowed on Friday – FINALLY. I’ve been waiting since October for decent snow. Yesterday it was all sunshine and sparkles with a blue blue sky – just gorgeous! The snow makes everything brighter. I love winter. Today, it’s supposed to rain, so the snow seen in the pics is actually half of what we got in about 24 hours last Friday. Loved it! Winter is supposed to be full of white fluffy cold stuff!
I didn’t put any fastenings at the CF (I may change this later and add snaps) so I’m holding it closed with a belt. Haven’t put any belt loops as of picture-taking time, but I think I’ll add some. And now that the snow’s scheduled to melt in the rain today, I’m ready for those casually dressed errands without a ski jacket.
22 thoughts on “Winter Plaid Jacket”
I know just what you mean about having a warm casual coat that isn’t a parka. This is a great looking one. I love the creative way you applied the bias bands. So much more interesting looking than the way the pattern recommends.
I am so so glad you made this coat. I’ve been reading your blog for a while now, as we have similar tastes. I actually ordered this magazine directly from the distributor of Burda about six months ago specifically for that coat, and I’ve just been waiting for the perfect moment to stitch it up. It is enormously gratifying to see it done up by a real person wearing it in the real world as opposed to a model wearing it styled in a magazine. Well done!
The coat is so lovely…a great fusion of pattern and fabric. Double extra bonus points for: finding and using thrifted fabric…using a pattern from Burda!!
Raw edges is one of my favorite details, yours look great on this coat. And I admire your fearlessness felting the fabric until you got the precise texture/weight you wanted. I gotta try that…
Gorgeous coat!! Love the plaid and the hem treatment at the bottom and front.
Pretty coat and thanks for showing all the details.
Your version looks so much better than the line drawing! I like the bias cut plaid on the edges.
Wow, great job on this!! I didn’t give this pattern a second look, but I’ll have to rethink that.
Love the plaid jacket and how you worked it on the outer band.
What a great coat. I love the raw edge bias trim. I didn’t give this pattern a second glance in burda, but I would give you one!
You are not disappointing anyone-zomyg this would be awesome in fur (really thick plush pile) I don’t have this burda but I doubt the pattern would’ve caught my eye if it wasn’t for your plaid-y make. Rock on.
I’m glad you went with your instincts – you’re sewing for YOU, not us – and this is very you 🙂 Now, if you still decide to make the lab coat at least you’ve gotten your immediate need out of the way 🙂
The bias details makes this jacket sing! Love it!
I think you improved the Burda design – just beautiful. What a great fabric – a perfect marriage between design and fabric. I know what you mean about loving winter – it is the best time of the year. Of course, here it doesn’t snow, but it does get cold and the sky is a shiny blue and the hills behind my house are a deep brilliant green. Winter is my season.
Wow, very, very pretty! I love the bias details.
Love your jacket, looks great. What fun, you did a beautiful job….
Super cosy and love the cuffs, very Chanellian!
I like how the band’s plaid contrasts with the body of the coat. Very nice.
It looks great! I like the pattern very much. And I have a quite similar fabric…but not enough for this, I´m making a vest instead. Your new coat is the opposite to a ski jacket and all the detail you always add are top rate!
Those bias bands and cuffs really ROCK! How cool that you were able to slightly felt the wool to make it what you wanted! I like the back with the belt and the little bunching up over the belt. Good for you to make a 180 degree turn and end up with a beauty of a new jacket!
Oh my, how many people stop you along the street/mall to comment on this gorgeous coat!? That pattern didn’t even register when I looked at that Burda issue! Really like the belt with it.
delicious! so cute and cozy. Excellent work and the bias plaid is really sharp looking.