Isn’t this the most amazing colour? In some lights it’s cobalt. Other times it looks what in my mind I call “blueberry”. And the highlights are baby blue, but other times they look turquoise. It’s a visual feast, embodied in my DD3’s new Christmas dress. She leapt at the fabric when she laid eyes on it, and after perusing The Patter
n Stash, chose this little classic number called Vogue 8615. The selling feature was the BIG SKIRT. Now, the brocade as has decent amount of heft, as most brocade does, but as you can see from some of the versions on PR (click the pattern image to see) the skirt falls rather flat. The pattern does mention a purchased petticoat, which I think helps the skirt stand properly. But I didn’t want to make a separate petticoat, and DD3 didn’t want to wear a separate petticoat. Isn’t it nice when we’re on the same page with our clients? 🙂
I had in my mind this BIG SKIRT from Irving Berlin’s White Christmas, and since we watch this film bi-annually, I was quite sure that I could copy the stiffness of it. If you watch this scene you’ll notice that the skirt actually bends, like there’s 20 layers of organza underlining.
I chose to use a stiff netting as underlining – just one layer – and the effect is similar.
The hem was fun to make. Vogue suggests a narrow 5/8″ hem, but I wanted more support in that BIG SKIRT, so I turned it up 3 inches and micro-pleated in the extra fullness into purchased 1-inch-wide bias binding (that’s super stiff for some reason) and hand-stitched it to the underlining. I did not press the hem. The skirt is 6 yards in circumference, consisting of four panels. The centre of each panel is cut on the straight grain, which means each seam is on the bias. That was another reason I underlined it with stiff netting. 🙂 Netting on the bias doesn’t grow, and I was surprised, after cutting fashion fabric, that this brocade would if I’d let it have it’s own way.
The dress is straining on Vintage Judy through the shoulders, but the V back fits DD3’s shoulders perfectly because I raised it by 1.5 inches and did a short-waist adjustments to keep it sitting properly. I debated putting a waist stay into the dress, but didn’t. I may add one if today’s wearing suggests it would be a good idea. (Today is DD2 and DD3’s piano recital.) 
The zipper is hand picked, and can I just say it was such a massive pleasure putting a zipper in by hand again? So much simpler than a lapped zip or an invisible zip and completely fuss-free. After inserting the zipper, I made an additional pass over the stitches and added iridescent beads. It’s my first use of this decorative technique. 
There’s a lot of pattern in this brocade, with a repeat that I ignored except on the CF bodice seam. You can see from the pic above how the BIG SKIRT folds in on itself rather stiffly. So pretty, even if I do say so myself. I’m really liking this pattern, too. It comes with custom bodice sizes A through D cup, two sleeve lengths, and seriously, peeps – who couldn’t love that BIG SKIRT?
Mezzo Couture 
Oh lovely and with more beads to sparkle. How did the piano recitals go?
The piano went well. Just another piece of a well-rounded education and something to keep them from getting bored. Y’know the drill. whine whine whine I’m bored. Well, go practice for 20 minutes then! 🙂
I was the same as a kid and am about to organise a piano for them too. As long as the whining doesn’t return when practise is suggested….
What a lovely finished dress. I bought that pattern ages ago, I think Gertie made it up in a plum colour. It’s wonderful to see it in a print. Your daughter must be over the moon.
What a great dress! I love the colour! The fabric is amazing!
That fabric…. oh what a fabric!! You could just drape it over a shoulder like a toga and look good in that (yes, that’s what i do with my fabric when i get it home haha). But the dress is such a perfect canvas for showing off that lovely fabric; simple, clean, lovely lines and BIG skirt falling in perfect folds – love it!!
Boy, you’ve been busy, cranking out another stunning dress! awesome!
Gorgeous! Love the idea of adding the net, I may just steal that technique for something I need to make for daughter no2!
Such a cute dress – and above all I LOVER the beaded zipper finish! I have read about this and it is fabulous to ‘see’ it in person!
Stunning! What a FABULOUS colour!
Beautifully done! I agree with your endorsement of the hand-picked zipper, and yours is especially lovely with the beads.
Oooh, it IS a fabulous colour! And, I love your big skirt. How clever and pretty to add beads to the outside of the zipper. Looks so pretty!
GORGEOUS! And what an amazing color.
My heart skipped a little beat for this blue beauty! And I hope you dont mind but I pinned your stunning beaded zip to my “sewing inspiration” board so I can remember this awesome technique for one day when I make something of beauty. x
I’m flattered, but I really can’t take any credit for the idea!
Oh. Lady! This is soooo awesome! It’s spectacular, so beautiful … actually my English vocabulary is very poor to I describe in words all the feelings that run through my mind when I see this beautiful dress …
stunning!!!
Amazing in every way! Beautiful zipper installation 🙂
So pretty! Both the skirt shape and the fabric (I LOVE brocade). I don’t know the movie so I’m going to check it out, if only for the skirt, haha.
Zipper and fabric envy big time!!!
Amazeball! Great pattern choice for this striking fabric. Style it up and you could even mistake it for a vintage Balenciaga! Lucky daughter 🙂
OMG! This is a dream dress! All the details…I´m in awe!
Fabulous dress and great use of the net to give the skirt a lot of swing!
What a stunning dress , that colour is beautiful. Lucky girl:-)
Wow.l Totally fabulous! You are a star.
What a fabulous mother you are! Once again, a beautifully worked dress.
I’d love to see her in it doing a swirl!!!!! Great job, love the inside and zipper shots,,,Zandra Rhodes would be proud of you beading that area!