Waffling on how to go about certain parts of garment construction sometimes really trips me up on productivity.  I’m currently have my Harris tweed dress coat cut and ready to assemble, but I’m undecided about the interlining/underlining. undecided (600x800)

I want this garment to hold up to years of wear without falling out of shape, so I’m using hair canvas, which you can see at the very back of the picture.  I’m making Vogue 8626, View C.

Here’s the options I’m having a tough time choosing between:

  1. V-8626_thumb.jpgInterfacing the bodice back with the interfacing cut on the true bias and (possibly) an extra shoulder piece, depending on the fit.
  2. Should I underline this tweed with silk organza (I don’t want a lot of bulk), trim away all the bias interfacing seam allowances except for the shoulders and armscyes and catchstitch the interfacing to the organza?
  3. Or should I underline each back piece separately and cut a back “shield” for the interfacing ?

And what about the front?  I’m doing bound buttonholes, and will interface the front on the straight grain, but should I interface the entire length of the side fronts on the bias?

Do you ever get stalled on a project because you can’t decide which method to use?  This won’t be the last coat I make, so I guess I could just use this as an experiment and use whatever method I don’t choose on the next one….


8 thoughts on “stalled…

  1. I stall too but usually for totally different reasons – at least your stall is due to being thoughtful about your process and will likely benefit the final result! 🙂

  2. Yes I often stall. It often means that I haven’t thought of the best solution yet. Eventually and usually in the shower or some other random moment, it becomes clear.

  3. Gosh. I’d have just interfaced each piece according to the grain line on the pattern…never would have occurred to me to put it on the bias but now I can see why you might want to do that. Good luck whatever you decide!

  4. I really have little idea of what would be best, but I’m enjoying your journey! Yes I get stalled too, in the middle of projects. Its a nuisance only when I have a deadline, otherwise it just adds to the experience.

  5. Great post for discussion and learning!! For the back, I think I’d go for option 2… perhaps having fewer seams in the organza might be stronger than Option 3? For longevity, I’d also go with interfacing on the bias for the entire length of side fronts… (Note: I am a relative newbie…with coat skills limited to a Minoru!!).


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