I wanted the nicest possible sleeve head for this coat, so I cut a bias strip of tweed and interfaced the top 4 inches of the the sleeve head.
The cuff is interfaced with a wide strip of bias horsehair.
After fitting prior to sleeve insertion, I decided to put in a very small 1/4″ shoulder pad. Here’s the front of the shoulders.
Here’s the back view. The shoulders of this coat are quite sloped and designed with no shoulder pads in mind. 
I think this coat looks like it’s been in my closet for a while. Y’know – already broken in.
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Mezzo Couture 
I love this insight into tailoring. Its like another world within stitchery that is hidden within the linings of things we wear everyday. Wonderful.
Hi there! I have nominated you for the Liebster Award http://montanadesigns.wordpress.com/2014/03/15/liebster-award-nom/
Thank you so much!
It’s well deserved ☺
Wow, I’ve never seen this technique! I’m pondering a linen jacket without shoulder pads, so this is going into “Skills I want to Try” category!
Ditto for me, I’ve been following with interest your progress (I really need to do more of those myself). Looks great!
Wow, sleeveheads… This is just me again drooling all the way from Holland!
hehe…. Construction deets make me go crazy-in-love, too! That’s what a the sewing fun is about, don’t you know!
Not been great about commenting lately but I’m really enjoying all the construction pics!
Thanks! You know I love to see construction pics, so I thought I’d contribute.
Your work is fabulous. This coat looks incredibly elegant. I’m curious about the horsehair canvas in the sleeve head – I’ve seen other sewers do this and I’m not sure why. Do you do it primarily to add support and stability and prevent the sleeve cap from stretching with wear?
I interface the sleeve head to help it maintain its shape over the years of wear. The armscye of a garment can take a lot of stress, and interfacing helps the silhouette stay crisp.
So beautiful… my mind is blown – you’re amazing!! 🙂
I love all the layers of tailoring – so interesting, so time consuming, so FUN!!!