Vogue 1054: Rucci Trousers

Vogue 1054 pantsI’m still on the hunt for trousers I’m wanting to stay with for the long haul.  I’ve had a lot of short-term relationships with most of the trousers I’ve made, so I thought I’d give these a try.  I only own two pairs of casual trousers and find myself wearing them repeatedly during an average week, and I thought it would be fun to see if these actually fit a curvy girl like me given all the design elements so I can have a new pair of trousers to wear.

Vogue 1054I made these up in a stretch cotton sateen, which is one of the suggested fabrics – minus the stretch.  The shine highlights every single possible hint of a flaw, never mind the actually fitting issues.  Completely unwearable and not a keeper in my books, so they’ve already gone to the thrift shop for some lucky person who probably won’t know she’s wearing a Chado design!!!

Anways, since I went to all the trouble of finishing these, I thought I’d share my thoughts about them. First of all, I’ve never inserted a zipper this way.  Yup, the fly is finished.Vogue 1054 pants zipperAnd the instructions never do mention that one needs to trim that extra length of zipper before attaching the waistband.  However, once it’s all trimmed and stitched, this is what you’re left with.Vogue 1054 finished zipIsn’t that gorgeous?  It’s probably one of the more visually pleasing front flys I’ve ever done in my sewing life. Vogue 1054 frontHere’s the inside view of the front.Vogue 1054 zip fly

The pockets are part of the front yokes.Vogue 1054 pocketsAnd the reverse corners were fun.  The details always make a sewing project more pleasurable, imho.  Plain and simple gets tedious after a while, and this pattern is not simple or boring by a long set of instructions.Vogue 1054 reverse corner front Beside the unmentioned need to trim the zipper, there were a couple of notch match-ups that didn’t happen properly in the lining.  Vogue 1054 lining mismatchThe side/yoke pieces double notches didn’t match up on the back pieces, as you can see above, and the same little problem popped up on the front lining piece along the top seam with the notches on the yoke.Vogue 1054 lining yoke mismatchThis wasn’t a good fabric for these trousers, although it was a luxury to sew.  It exaggerates every single wrinkle possible.Vogue 1054 sideThe back patch pockets are flattering.Vogue 1054 backThe legs are very straight, and on a curvy person, that can appear wide – something I’m not too sure about.  I felt they were very dressy trouser-ish while wearing them, and I can’t decide if that’s because they were lined or roomy or a combination of both.  Vogue 1054 shinyI wasn’t sure about altering these trousers, so I cut them according to Vogue’s size recommendations, and they are roomy.  I suppose the stretch factor didn’t help, but they could have been a full size smaller, which I’ll do the next time.Vogue 1054 front (2)And the crotch curve needs some altering for the next pair, but I wasn’t going to futz with these, and I was prepared to finish these, try them on and give them away if they weren’t a perfect fit due to the poor fabric choice.  Silly, I guess, but I had no problem finishing them up beautifully to pass on after wearing them for one afternoon.  Blame it on a new pattern with 69 (sometimes tricky) steps

Final verdict:  What an amazing trouser pattern.  I cannot wait to find the perfect fabric to make these up again.  Patterns with a thousand little details always make my sewing room a happy place, and these are the perfect ticket to happy detail sewing in a trouser pattern.


8 thoughts on “Vogue 1054: Rucci Trousers

  1. I really like these though couldn’t agree more about the shiney fabric… They’ll be great in a matt finish …. I really struggle with getting fabric right for a pattern. Oh we’ll at least it was fun to sew up.

    Lovely lovely fly finish!

  2. I have this pattern in my collection and really like the details of these pants. However the seaming is so unique, I think a muslin is probably needed to check the fit. I appreciate your review even though the pants were not a keeper for you.

  3. Wow, lovely trousers, i hadn’t even noticed them in that pattern. I think they look rather good on you, especially in the waist to hip area which is the hardest to fit for us curvy girls. I look forward to you making them again in another fabric. I too enjoy the process and the little details, sometimes more than the finished thing. Just think of the lucky curvy girl that will find this pair at the thrift shop.

  4. Beautifully made though shame about the fabric. Lessons learned all the time with this sewing lark! I see the pattern also suggests dupioni, this seems a little light weight to me what about a fine cotton twill – something with a bit of body to it but not heavy? Great fly zip BTW

    1. I was a bit “HUH?” about the duppion, too. Can you imagine how they would wrinkle? It would be worse than linen… omg…. making these trousers in linen underlined with organza to prevent the wrinkles… forget the hours in a Chanel-type jacket and let’s try a couture version of Ralph Rucci trousers! :\

  5. Enjoyed your comments about these pants. I have this pattern, purchased for the top – but I’m so short – 5’2 that I’ve not even tried to tackle it yet. I’d totally forgotten about the wonderful pants that are with it. And I’m a nut for trying every new pant pattern that comes along. Pams pants might work well for you with your curves …JMHO – You did a beautiful job finishing these trousers.
    Marciae from SG

  6. Thank you for sharing the lack of matching notches and other things that were left out of this pattern. So many times new sewers assume it is them that did something wrong but you proved that it can be the pattern AND the fabric choice even though it was the suggested type. They may look better in a wool blend with a less shiny finish. The inside fly finish is beautiful. I have made pants with that zipper bit waving high in the breeze waiting to be cut off. I have also altered waistbands for clients with that zipper treatment and when I went to zip everything closed to check for a flat finish…whoosh…all I got was the pull tab in my hand since the top stop was long gone.


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