Ikat Trousers & Metallic Jersey

Burda 10-2013-140 ikat frontI completely fell in love with this fabric when EOS was having a roll-end party a few months ago, and decided I needed a pair of trousers of this stretch ikat brocade.  These trousers have been sewn and waiting for wear since the end of December, as part of my Burda Challenge 2013, so I thought I’d finally blog them.

I confess to still not having a perfect trouser pattern block.  Recently I learned about points of measure (POM) that are necessary in the RTW and pattern making world.  Apparently, the POM at 2 inches up from the bottom of a crotch curve should equal 6 or 7 inches between CF and CB when laying out the pieces flat with the crotch a continuous curve.

Let’s just say that NONE of the trouser patterns I have made to date have that measurement, which probably explains a lot of my fitting problems.  However, I’m getting ahead of myself: I learned this little VIP piece of information after finishing these trousers.  This post is about Burda 10/2013 #140, which is for stretch leather skinny trousers.  Well, stretch anything should work, right?  And at the time I sewed up these trousers, I was pretty dayum proud of tweaking the fit of my butt.

I attempted to tackle the fit with the help of this incredible book on fitting after reading about it on A Challenging Sew.  Can I just tell you this is a gold mine?  O.  My.  Goodness.  It’s the bible of fitting.  Amazing.

fitting and pattern alterationWell, I spent hours trying to imitate my personal shape on paper with the help of a flexible ruler, and came pretty near close to it.  I didn’t capture any photos, but the lining for these pants FIT WITHOUT ANY WRINKLES ANYWHERE.  I was gobsmacked.  First time ever without wrinkles in trousers other than an 80’s loose-fitting dress trouser.  Unfortunately, these stretch trousers are not so jaw dropping.

Burda 10-2013-140 sideI only half-lined them to the knees, and I wish I’d done a complete lining because the fabric isn’t the most comfortable to wear next to the skin. I wasn’t sure about the skinny legs of this pattern, so I straightened them out a bit.Burda 10-2013-140 ikatBut you can see the inseam is pulling up. I’m not quite sure what to do about that yet. Aside from that, the fit is comfortable and I’m pleased with it through the hips, but I’m not crazy about my straight-leg adjustment.  Maybe I created the problem with the inseam by beginning my widening of the skinny above the knees? Perhaps they’d be better if they just stayed skinnines.

Burda 10-2013-140 frontI’ve no intention of wearing these as everyday trousers – they’re a little attention-grabbing for me, and I haven’t figured out the right top or shoes (definitely not the booties I’m wearing in these photos).  They need something like stilettos or kitten heels.

Maybe I’ll pair them with this top that I haven’t yet shown the light of day.  It’s another garment from my Burda Challenge 2013 (Burda 12/2013 #119a).  I thought these two would be a fun holiday outfit when I initially sewed them but I never got around to wearing them this past holiday season.Burda 12-2013-119aThere’s a lot of fabric in the front cowl – about triple what one would usually expect in a draped cowl neckline – but the excess is a nice touch in a party top.

My fabric is a metallic bronze jersey that was BOG2, and I have enough to make a maxi skirt for the fun of being over-the-top.

I made two changes to the pattern.  I added strap keepers at the shoulders because the neckline is very wide. I will narrow the lower band by about 4 inches, since this is more flattering (I think) to my short waist.  Nine inches of close-fitting band around my upper hips is unthinkable.  I’ve just folded it up in these pics, hence the inconsistency from photo to photo.Burda 12-2013-119a belted partyWell, I’ve got a new party outfit for the upcoming holiday season eight months hence.  Now I just need to adjust those inseams and find a different pair of shoes.

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13 thoughts on “Ikat Trousers & Metallic Jersey

  1. That fitting book has been on my wish list FOREVAH, but it’s pretty expensive so it’s still on there 😛 Good to know it’s worth the $$! I think your outfit is fabulous, and totally party-worthy! I’m just starting down the pants-fitting path (taking the Sandra Betzina Craftsy class!) and boy is it overwhelming how many adjustments there can be, and how they all affect each other! I think your fit is looking really good in these pants – and you should be proud to show it off, girl!! 🙂

  2. I too have this fitting book. It. Is. The. Bees. Knees.

    And your trou are fab …. Pretty jolly good fit I think with the tweaks you mentioned looking pretty minor I think. Then again I know what you mean about the search/adventure for pants ‘perfection’….. Down the rabbit hole eh?

    The top …. Wonderful glitzy fabric which works so well with the fabric and colours of your party trou. I’ve yet to make the top up ….. Am mulling about the hip band too ….

  3. Love it! Especially the full outfit, including the so on trend coin belt! I’m jealous. You must find more excuses to wear these great pieces.

  4. Definitely an outfit for a night out!

    When you widened the leg, did you add equally to the inseam and outseam? If not, the pulling may be caused by the grainline being off-center. Just a thought.

  5. Fab outfit! The color and shine go great together, and i’m really impressed with your pants fit. I mustcheck out thatbook, thanks for sharing!

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