Blackwatch Plaid Coat: Sleeves

Short post, but these sleeves were a trial for me.  You see, I decided to cut the skirt before cutting the sleeves, and the skirt is h.u.g.e., comprising six quarter circle panels.  So I was left fitting the sleeves on to what was left.  Not a big deal, really, because I did have enough fabric, but matching the plaid was a challenge without yards left to use.Marfy 1005 sleeveAnd it looks like that green stripe is running forward of the centre of the sleeve, but it matches up perfectly with the forward shoulder adjustment, and hangs straight on DD1.  The dress form doesn’t have a forward shoulder, so it looks off.  I don’t handle ‘I-don’t-know-what-I’m-doing’ and out-of-my-depth sink-or-swim learning situations very well, and trying to decide how to match the plaid, with enough ease for the shoulders left me with a shorter sleeve that I really wanted and cost hours of draping, hemming, hawing and one or two mental sewing sessions at 3 a.m. This is the sort of crux I come to and wish I had more theory under my belt, or at least someone to teach me as I do it.  However, trial, error, and a what little experience I have had to make it do.  shoulder match plaidThe plaid is matched all ’round the sleeve through upper and under pieces.  DD1 and I had planned to add a bias cuff, so I wasn’t too worried about the inch or so of sleeve length I was missing by the time the plaid-matching decisions were made at the upper/under sleeves were cut.   I wanted a deeper cuff, but I was literally working with scraps by this point, so they’re only about 6 inches wide.  I lined them with the same lining used for the coat in order to keep bulk at a minimum.  We also added a short peplum, cut on the bias, to break up the plaid and add a little of the McQueen silhouette into the garment.  It just seemed to ‘finish’ the look.  There are side seam pockets underneath the peplum.bias peplum and cuffWell, the next (and last) post on this project will be with a live model.  I’m hoping she’ll give us a twirl so you can see how lovely the skirt on this coat is.

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21 thoughts on “Blackwatch Plaid Coat: Sleeves

  1. Wow, this is utterly gorgeous! Your collar looks amazing and those sleeve heads… just lovely, Tia, and if anyone is looking at the plaid after all that their head will literally pop off and blow away from being so impressed!! 😀

  2. Looks like the major points line up both horizontally and vertically. Impossible to get every little point to match. It looks fabulous. Looking forward to seeing the front view.

  3. This is so beautiful! How is sewing with that thick fabric? (It looks thick!) I think you have done an amazing job. And I LOVE the lines of the coat!

    1. Harris tweed is a lot less thick than wool melton, say. I find it less bulky and quite easy to shape. I have a Baby Lock Crafter’s Choice, and it slogs through many layers like a patient champion. The only thing it bails on is buttonholes on thick fabrics.

  4. Your horizontal lines are spot on and run right across the fronts – congratulate yourself! The back of sleeves and the plaid on the back hardly ever lines up because of the bias cut of the sleeve heads. Sit back and glorify in what you’ve achieved so far.

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