I have long had the intention of adding more shirts to my clothes rotation, but hadn’t had the motivation until this past week… well, two days ago, in fact, when I browsed through the PR website and thought I’d give the Sewing Bee 2015 a try. What do I have to lose? And it provided a reason to sew a new shirt.
Enter a vintage Liberty tana lawn called Judy. I only had about 40 inches of full width yardage with a few decent-sized scraps left from Vogue 7340, which was sewn a few years ago. I had hoped to make a Sewaholic Granville, or another Vogue 8747, but there wasn’t enough fabric. So I turned to Burda and remembered I had traced of 1/2011 #107 a couple of years ago and done nothing with it. So I cut out the traced pattern and after careful tissue fitting, determined the only adjustment I needed was to shorten the back waist. I didn’t even need to do an FBA, believe it or not. There is about 4″ of ease just across the bust, even for me, and I usually require a 1.5 or 2-inch FBA on tops.
I did trim the seam allowances off the top of the fronts, tapering to nothing at the neckline, to facilitate a forward shoulder.
I made a few changes to the pattern. First, I did not add petersham ribbon down the front bands. I didn’t like the look much.
I shortened the sleeve cuffs by about one inch. I didn’t think I had short arms.
But I will probably wear them open and turned up because I like the look of the ‘wings’.
The back inverted pleat gave me a little trouble, fitting it over the hips. I tapered it below the waist so that it followed the hip shape without flaring out like a sail.
The collar gave me some grief. It has a shaped stand that is sewn into an elongated “c” cut out of the collar. You can see the pattern pieces here. I used Fashion Sewing Supply’s “Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible” because I really love crisp shirt collars/cuffs/bands. It is v.e.r.y. crisp, and I think this contributed to the difficulty I had attaching the collar to the stand. In the end I trimmed the seam allowances to a mere 1/4″, clipped them excessively, and it came together.
And there’s my new shirt. (I don’t plan to wear it with these pants, btw, which I usually reserve for wear with the Donna Karan Big Shirt aka Vogue 1038. I just haven’t made a decent fitting pair of green-ish trousers that fit yet.) I love Liberty tana lawn, so I know this will get a lot of wear, even as the weather cools down. I’ve been pleasantly surprised at just how warm tana lawn can be over the years.