I mentioned in my last post that Burda’s instructions for the construction of the Painted Jacket’s yokes with their reverse corners was atrocious, consisting of, and I quote,
“Stitch front yokes to fronts and titch back yokes to back. Clip seam allowances of fronts and back into corners. Press seam allowances onto yokes. Topstitch yokes close to attachment seams…..”
Sooooo much is missing in this little paragraph, that I thought I’d share how I do reverse corners. I give full and unabashed credit to Vogue Patterns’ instruction sheets in the various designer patterns which I have sewn over the years, since it is through them that I have learned pretty much everything I know about sewing.
Step 1: On right side of fabric, pin one small fabric remnant (silk organza is my choice), centring over the corner centre. Stitch along stitching/seam lines using a small stitch, pivoting at the corners.Step 2: Slash between stitchings to corner. Be exact on this step, slashing as close as you can to the stitching without cutting through it.Step 3: Press fabric remnant toward seam allowance over slashed edges.Step 4: Pin baste pieces, stitching sections together, just alongside the reinforcement stitching.Step 5: Press allowances onto yokes, trimming allowances on an angle into the corner.Step 6: Topstitch or not. Here’s the finished result from the right side.I do find that some fiddling may be required to ensure the reinforcing remnant is within the seam allowance and doesn’t show from the right side, but I have never had a failure using this technique. The corner is reinforced and secure and won’t pull apart, even under wear and duress.