Reverse Corner Construction

I mentioned in my last post that Burda’s instructions for the construction of the Painted Jacket’s yokes with their reverse corners was atrocious, consisting of, and I quote,

“Stitch front yokes to fronts and titch back yokes to back.  Clip seam allowances of fronts and back into corners.  Press seam allowances onto yokes.  Topstitch yokes close to attachment seams…..”

Sooooo much is missing in this little paragraph, that I thought I’d share how I do reverse corners.  I give full and unabashed credit to Vogue Patterns’ instruction sheets in the various designer patterns which I have sewn over the years, since it is through them that I have learned pretty much everything I know about sewing.

Step 1:  On right side of fabric, pin one small fabric remnant (silk organza is my choice), centring over the corner centre.  Stitch along stitching/seam lines using a small stitch, pivoting at the corners.reverse corner 1Step 2:  Slash between stitchings to corner.  Be exact on this step, slashing as close as you can to the stitching without cutting through it.reverse corner 2Step 3:  Press fabric remnant toward seam allowance over slashed edges.reverse corner 3Step 4:  Pin baste pieces, stitching sections together, just alongside the reinforcement stitching.reverse corner 4Step 5:  Press allowances onto yokes, trimming allowances on an angle into the corner.reverse corner interiorStep 6:  Topstitch or not.  Here’s the finished result from the right side.reverse corner 5I do find that some fiddling may be required to ensure the reinforcing remnant is within the seam allowance and doesn’t show from the right side, but I have never had a failure using this technique.  The corner is reinforced and secure and won’t pull apart, even under wear and duress.

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8 thoughts on “Reverse Corner Construction

  1. What a good idea! Burda should hire you to update ALL their pattern instructions!! Honestly, their instructions are so notoriously bad that the sample you shared is actually good compared to some of the ones I’ve encountered LOL. I think more visual clues would help them immensely – most of us learn better by visual example anyway 🙂

  2. oh that is so clever! I have only ever reinforced the corner via interfacing on the left side, but of course your technique is a lot more secure. I will definitely try this on my next corners. Thanks for sharing!

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