*picture heavy post* I thought I’d post a tute on the method I used for the bound buttonholes I’m using on the jacket-on-request. The wool I’m using is a beautiful black, taupe, grey and white suit weight wool, and it loves to unravel. Problem! This method is perfect for ravelly fabrics and it’s the easiest method I’ve found to make identical near-perfect bound buttonholes. Sherry of pattern, scissors, cloth has posted an identical tutorial with a bulky mohair fabric. But I’ll confess I have a fear of doing finicky details like bound buttonholes on finer fabrics like suiting and thought I’d post this anyways.
Mark and measure your buttonholes accurately. Mine will be 6mm wide. Cut squares of silk organza 1.5 inches wider and longer than your intended buttonhole.
On the RIGHT side, centre the organza patches over the buttonhole markings and baste through the centre of the buttonhole. Measure and measure again to ensure accuracy! From the WRONG side, carefully stitch along your markings using a very small stitch. Begin and end in the middle of the buttonhole, not at a corner. Measure and measure again for accuracy!
Remove the centre basting…
… and slash through the centre of the buttonhole to within 3mm of the ends, clipping diagonally to the corners. Eck-zact-ly to the corners, because one unsnipped thread will throw off the symmetry of the corners.
Pull the organza patches through to the wrong side
Press flat so the edges are clean.
Here’s my finished three openings.And from the wrong side, it looks neat and tidy, too!Cut TWO squares of fabric for each buttonhole and baste them down the middle. This will form the edges of the buttonhole opening. I wanted mine to form chevrons, so I basted them diagonally. Press them open. Align the centre of the basted squares so that they line up through the centre of the buttonhole opening. Pin or hand tack into place along the long edges.From the wrong side, stitch across on end of the buttonhole through all thicknesses, keeping the front free. Extend the stitching 1/4 inch past the buttonhole. Check after stitching each end to ensure accuracy.
Turn back the organza patch and stitch along the top and bottom sides of the buttonholes. Finished buttonhole from the front. And the back, prior to trimming threads and excess fabric. Here’s my three buttonholes. And the inside view. The middle one is uneven, as you can see from the back… …and the front. So I will redo this one. And now it’s acceptable!