I completely fell in love with this fabric when EOS was having a roll-end party a few months ago, and decided I needed a pair of trousers of this stretch ikat brocade. These trousers have been sewn and waiting for wear since the end of December, as part of my Burda Challenge 2013, so I thought I’d finally blog them.
I confess to still not having a perfect trouser pattern block. Recently I learned about points of measure (POM) that are necessary in the RTW and pattern making world. Apparently, the POM at 2 inches up from the bottom of a crotch curve should equal 6 or 7 inches between CF and CB when laying out the pieces flat with the crotch a continuous curve.
Let’s just say that NONE of the trouser patterns I have made to date have that measurement, which probably explains a lot of my fitting problems. However, I’m getting ahead of myself: I learned this little VIP piece of information after finishing these trousers. This post is about Burda 10/2013 #140, which is for stretch leather skinny trousers. Well, stretch anything should work, right? And at the time I sewed up these trousers, I was pretty dayum proud of tweaking the fit of my butt.
I attempted to tackle the fit with the help of this incredible book on fitting after reading about it on A Challenging Sew. Can I just tell you this is a gold mine? O. My. Goodness. It’s the bible of fitting. Amazing.
Well, I spent hours trying to imitate my personal shape on paper with the help of a flexible ruler, and came pretty near close to it. I didn’t capture any photos, but the lining for these pants FIT WITHOUT ANY WRINKLES ANYWHERE. I was gobsmacked. First time ever without wrinkles in trousers other than an 80’s loose-fitting dress trouser. Unfortunately, these stretch trousers are not so jaw dropping.
I only half-lined them to the knees, and I wish I’d done a complete lining because the fabric isn’t the most comfortable to wear next to the skin. I wasn’t sure about the skinny legs of this pattern, so I straightened them out a bit.But you can see the inseam is pulling up. I’m not quite sure what to do about that yet. Aside from that, the fit is comfortable and I’m pleased with it through the hips, but I’m not crazy about my straight-leg adjustment. Maybe I created the problem with the inseam by beginning my widening of the skinny above the knees? Perhaps they’d be better if they just stayed skinnines.
I’ve no intention of wearing these as everyday trousers – they’re a little attention-grabbing for me, and I haven’t figured out the right top or shoes (definitely not the booties I’m wearing in these photos). They need something like stilettos or kitten heels.
Maybe I’ll pair them with this top that I haven’t yet shown the light of day. It’s another garment from my Burda Challenge 2013 (Burda 12/2013 #119a). I thought these two would be a fun holiday outfit when I initially sewed them but I never got around to wearing them this past holiday season.There’s a lot of fabric in the front cowl – about triple what one would usually expect in a draped cowl neckline – but the excess is a nice touch in a party top.
My fabric is a metallic bronze jersey that was BOG2, and I have enough to make a maxi skirt for the fun of being over-the-top.
I made two changes to the pattern. I added strap keepers at the shoulders because the neckline is very wide. I will narrow the lower band by about 4 inches, since this is more flattering (I think) to my short waist. Nine inches of close-fitting band around my upper hips is unthinkable. I’ve just folded it up in these pics, hence the inconsistency from photo to photo.Well, I’ve got a new party outfit for the upcoming holiday season eight months hence. Now I just need to adjust those inseams and find a different pair of shoes.