Broderie anglaise: failure & success

I’ve had a beautiful silk/cotton broderie anglaise for a couple of years, and couldn’t decide what to do with it.  I had two pieces, for a total of about 2.5 metres or so.  What to do?  I can’t see myself wearing a dress made of this pretty fabric, although I really do like it.  But I needed some tops to wear for the summer, so I opted for two, the first of which was Vogue 8392.Image result for vogue 8392

And since it’s the Year of the Sleeve, I thought maybe I’d try that little trend, too. I underlined the top in a cotton voile, and bound the neck edges and opening with it.  Then I thought I’d get fancy with the sleeves. I purchased a 5cm wide trim to add to the bottom of the sleeve, and cut one flounce to make it, well, flouncy. It was so pretty!

Vogue 8392 sleeve

And it looked like a box on me. Ugh.  I dont’ know what it is about flounces, but I love the idea, and hate the reality of it on me. Maybe these aren’t just dramatic enough. Perhaps more flounces would have been better. But I don’t think it’s the sleeves that I dislike about this top.  I’m sorry I don’t have photos of it.  It was too horrible to photograph; I put it on, and took it off.

I think it was the neckline. This is the second garment I’ve made with neckline pleats, and I just don’t like them. The first one is this dress, and I haven’t worn it at all this year because I just hate how the neckline pleats add more bulk and volume above my chest than I’m comfortable with.  I was rather disappointed. I had hoped this would be a pretty top that I would like to wear. I’ve taken the flounces off the sleeves and put it aside for the thrift shop.  Perhaps someone else will think it’s perfect.

So, on to the next blouse, which I’ve made before out of silk chiffon, and quite liked.

Burda 10-2010-118 drawing

I did not bother underlining this.  I also cut the tie a bit in between the suggested lengths and considerably narrower than either version. This is with my previously-blogged pleated trousers.

Burda 10-2010-118, rolled trousers

I used French seams throughout the construction.

broderie interior

And, just to see if it’s really possible to tell the difference between a pair of brown capris (unblogged) and a skin-tone camisole, I took this picture. I was pleasantly surprised that slight differences in under layers won’t be too noticeable.

broderie underneath

This is another winner of a pattern, in my books. I’ve made this top three times, and never regretted any version of it. 🙂

Burda 4-2010-143 front

Utility Trousers aka Burda 3/2011 #132

Burda 3-2011-132 linenl’ve made another two pairs of these trousers in a lightweight yet durable linen and an embroidered linen.  DD1 loved the first version from a couple of years ago and actually wore them constantly until she grew out of them.  When asked about her wardrobe needs/wants for this summer, another pair were the first item on her list for clothes. I couldn’t think she was serious, but she was!  She really likes the look of these trousers, and she thinks they are the most comfortable thing to wear that’s a little weird different from anything else anybody around here wears.  So I traced off the pattern again and set myself to making strange trousers.  Personally, I think the best part of these trousers are the front pockets, which have a flap sewn into a side yoke, and a shaped opening.

Burda 3-2011-132B front pocketsI did a faux welt treatment for each pair on the back.  The welts are there, but the pocket is backed with a single piece of self-fabric and it is not a functioning pocket.

Burda 3-2011-132B back weltsShe’s very pleased with these.  I must say the sizing is a bit big through the waist.  I stitched the CB seams and fit through the side seams (as they’re they only seams not topstitched twice).  I ended up tapering out a total of 4 inches in width.  DD1 is graced with a small waist!

Burda 3-2011-132 legHer shoes work with this type of look, I think.  Of course, being the mom, I had to mention that should she ever need a costume that looks like a pair of vintage dungarees, all she needs to do is add suspenders to these trousers, pull the waist up to her ribcage and she’s done!Burda 3-2011-132 backAnd, luckily for me, she saw the humour in my comment once she googled “dungarees”.  So this was educational, at any rate! 🙂

Burda 3-2011-132 broderie 2For the ivory pair, I initially planned to underline them down to the leg patch section, but when DD1 put them on, it looked too obvious that the underlining (or something) ended just above her knee.  Not a good look.  So after putting all the beautiful handkerchief linen (boohoo) underlining in, I cut it all out.  Needless to say, there is no danger of a wardrobe malfunction without it and the look of the trousers is uniform.

Burda 3-2011-132 broderie detailShe wore the ivory pair all day yesterday, and commented on how much she really loves these trousers.  They are definitely not like anything I have seen in RTW, but they suit her and apparently they’re super comfortable.

Burda 3-2011-132 broderie 3