LATH Wardrobe: Burda 7/2014 #114 Colour Blocked Tee

colour blocked topYeah.  This sort of top isn’t really my style, but I had just that right amount of fabric left over and thought I’d give it a try.114_072014_b_largeIt’s a nice idea, but I think I over-thought this top.  After tracing the pattern, I decided it needed an FBA to keep the deep V neckline from pulling askew.  And that wonked up the fit through the sides.  But let’s be honest here.  This is a schlep-around-the-house (notice I didn’t say lounge-around-the-house) because it just is… well.. it’s a bit too sporty or yoga-ish or yay-team looking for me.  I feel like I need to be 20 years younger with my hair in a perky pony tail, so I really didn’t care to tweak it more than what was necessary to keep it from looking like the definitive visual definition of ill-fitting.  Here’s the back.Burda 7-2014-114 backNo, I did not do a sway back adjustment.  Yes, I took out a good inch down that CB seam.  Yes, I really do have a narrow short back when I choose to stand up straight with my shoulders thrown back where they belong.  But the colour-blocking is nice, isn’t it?  I’m really liking it from the back, especially with the contrast fold-over waistband on the pants in this photo.

The only part of this top that really made me take my time was the contrast neck band.  That CF point needs to be perfect, y’know.  I didn’t interface the neck band, but I did fuse a mid-weight piece of interfacing over the bottom point of the neck.  Burda doesn’t tell you to reinforce it further by stitching along the seamlines before clipping the seam allowance to the point à la Vogue instructions, but I did it anyways.  The last thing I wanted was the point to pull or rip out of shape.  BTW, it’s really annoying that Burda doesn’t ever give the “stitch along seamlines in small stitches, pivoting at CF” instructions for reinforcing points and corners.  Do they seriously think only interfacing will keep a clipped reverse corner in shape?neck band pointAnyways, here’s the inside of the neck band CF point.  I really like it when I do something properly.interiorPerfect for housework, no? Or finishing up that wall plastering. Oh. Wait. That’s a job for DH. I’ll just do the clean up. After I run around the block in my sporty new yay-team top.

colour block home wear

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 1/2013 – Trousers & Top

The first couple of items from my Lounge-Around-the-House wardrobe are done: the long-sleeved top (Burda 1/2013 #119) and the trousers with the fold-over waistband (Burda 1/2013 #112). I must say, I am really liking this shirt. I already have two more cut out ready to sew.

Burda 1-2013-112 and 119
Construction still happening around this house. Will it ever end?

sleeve pattern

I like the fit of it – it’s not too snug or too loose – and the bias ruffle around the hem and neck are different from anything I’ve seen in tops.  I like it in the contrasting fabric instead of tone-on-tone as per Burda. The bottom bias strip is about 3 inches wide.chiffon trimThe neck trim is a 2-inch wide bias strip, folded in half and stitched to the neckline edge.chiffon neck edgeThe rayon knit from EOS is just divine.  I love the quality of it.  I would be happy with a stash of it in every single colourway.  But back to the top:  imho, the best part is the sleeves. ruched sleevesThey fit beautifully – just like a second skin – not tight and not loose – and the outside ruching is a nice touch.  I didn’t quite have enough fabric for this top, so I split the sleeve down the centre on the straight grain and cut it out as two separate pieces.  That sleeve piece is a fabric hog as is. It worked perfectly.  Actually, I think I preferred cutting the sleeve this way because it eliminated the dart at the top of the ruching and running it into the seam all the length of the sleeve.  split sleeveIn my mind’s eye I can see a fussy little pointy piece of fabric that won’t lay flat at the end of the dart.  So I’m happy with my fix.  Here’s a pic of the next one cut and ready to assemble.  split sleeveThe trousers are super comfy.  I added some length through the back crotch curve, and the fit is great. I’m really loving how Burda’s trousers fit these days.  That, and the little tricks I’ve learned over the last year about crotch depth and that crucial POM 2″ up from the bottom of the crotch.  The waistband is a rectangular piece of fabric about 14 inches wide, so it folds over.  I cut it from the lavender knit as I had run out of the dark purple.  trouser waistbandDid I mention they’re super comfy?loungewearPerfect for hanging around the house with a warm cup of tea.

Burda lounge-around-the-house wardrobe

I’ve always had a hankering for making an entire Burda capsule wardrobe for some reason.  I just love how they pull together an average of 10-12 pieces and they all work beautifully together.  I recently cleaned up my sewing area a teeny tiny titch, and had the sudden impulse to sew a lounge-about-the-house wardrobe, courtesy of the February 2013 issue of Burda, after emptying out a large bag of knits that have been collecting over the last 12 months or so.  After laying them all out, I decided on this colour scheme:fabric choicesFrom L to R:  dark purple lightweight RPL, rusty rayon knit from EOS, graphic rayon knit from EOS, lavender lightweight RPL, and silk chiffon along the bottom. After shopping my stash, I decided I’d use the silk chiffon instead of the suggested silk satin.  It’s lighter in weight, and I’ll double it if necessary to match the weight of the knits if necessary.  I have 3 metres each of the light and dark purple, about the same of the silk chiffon and around 1 metre each of the print and rust knits.  Here’s my plan:

1. long skirt dark purple (Burda 1/2013 #116)

2. knit pants in dark purple (Burda 1/2013 #112)3. dress with chiffon in light purple (Burda 1/2013 #110)

4. cardigan with attached scarf in chiffon (Burda 1/2013 #114)114_0113_b_large

5. ruched long-sleeved tee with chiffon trim in rust (Burda 1/2013 #119)119_0113_b_large

6. short-sleeve tee in graphic print (Burda 2/2013 #126)

7. possibly a chiffon blouse (Burda 4/2011 #114)

8. and, if I have enough fabric left, this colour block top (Burda 7/2014 #114)114_072014_b_largeAnd that should give me a pretty good capsule wardrobe for fall LATH (lounge-around-the-house) wear.

*all line drawings courtesy BurdaStyle.com and Burdastyle.ru