Pattern Review: Burda 2-2011-102B

B 2-2011-102B front

Pattern Description:  Top # 102B from Burda’s February 2011 Mamma Mia! collection in sizes 36 -44

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes – 100%.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  I had no difficulty following the directions of this pattern, however, I can see where people who are just starting out on their sewing journey could be VERY confused with the directions for the construction of the bodice.  The bodice is self-lined, and there is no CB seam, so my usual trick for lining a sleeveless bodice was out of the question.  So I thought I’d give Burda’s instructions a try.  I must say I really liked their technique.  Here’s a summary:

  1. Pin lining pieces to respective upper front and back pieces.
  2. Stitch neck and armhole edges, beginning and ending 2 cm (3/4 inch) below shoulder seam line.
  3. Trim seam allowances, clipping curves.
  4. Turn FRONT right side out.
  5. Push front shoulder edges up through bottom of back to open shoulder seams of back.  Right fabric sides of front and back should meet at shoulder seams.
  6. Stitch shoulder seams of front and back pieces, and the shoulder seams of the lining.
  7. Pull front further up through the shoulder seams, press shoulder seams open.
  8. Matching lining and outer fabrics up, stitch remaining armhole and neckline seams.
  9. Pull front down out of back shoulder edges and the lining will turn itself to the inside.
  10. Press neck edge.

I’m sorry I didn’t photograph this as I went along.  If I make this top up again I’ll document it in photos so you can see the process.  It worked surprisingly well, and is a little trick I’ll file for future reference.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I really liked the neckline and the the cap sleeves on this pattern.

Fabric Used:  Rayon-lycra knit from Chico’s, purchased from EmmaOneSock

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I did do an FBA for this pattern, as I wanted the bodice to sit properly under the bust line.  Nothing irritates me more than an empire waist riding high.  I measured and cut the size Burda recommended.  BIG MISTAKE.  I should have B 2-2011-102B backcut a size smaller with the knit.  I’m starting to figure out Burda’s sizing, slowly but surely. This top ran big – I took in a total of 4 inches at the sides to get this to fit, and it still fits very loosely through the bust.  You can see from the back photo, too, that I should have done a short-waist adjustment through the upper part of the bodice.  The fabric gathers just above my waist, and it gapes at the back neckline when I throw my shoulders back and stand up straight.  It fits fine if I slouch, though!  Nyah-Nyah

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I would definitely sew this again.   The style is a keeper.  I’m considering this version a “wearable muslin”, since I’ll need to tweak it next time to get it perfect.

Conclusion: A cute little top that’s going to get a lot of wear!  As a style note, I think, because it’s so short – the hemline sits about 2 inches below my natural waist – it would look best with a pencil skirt.

MMJ 14