Burda Challenge: Burda 3/2013 #119 – The Cape

Burda 03-2013-119 tiedI got distracted from another pair of jeans by this cape from Burda’s March 2013 issue.  I just fell in love with it the first time I saw it, and Burda had the goodness to publish it in three colours:  mustard yellow, red and a dark khaki – the colour in which  I’ve made up my version.Burda 3-2013-119This was a super fun project for me.  I don’t own anything remotely similar to this, and I like odd pieces that could potentially get a lot of wear.  I had some 100% ramie in my stash, and I laundered it several times in hot water and in a hot dryer in order to minimize shrinkage and hopefully get that “washed linen” look.  The washed linen look never occurred, and the fabric gave off a tremendous amount of lint in my dryer, but I am confident that this garment will never shrink.

Burda 03-2013-119 hoodSee how short the sleeves are when ones arms are raised? Impractical from a warmth/protection from the elements point of view. It has a hood which, in my opinion, is completely useless. But it looks nice from the back.Burda 03-2013-119 back 3I enjoyed putting this garment together because it required several things with which I don’t usually work:  cord, grommets, velcro, D-rings and a brass-toothed separating zipper.  I learned that shortening a zipper with brass teeth does require a pair of nips in order to not wreak havoc on the zipper’s tape by pulling the teeth out one by one before plying them open.  Anyways, I also learned that I’m better at handling a metal zipper than my DH, who gamely offered to help me use his pliers.  😉  Burda 03-2013-119 detailsFabric used:  100% ramie shell, washed silk charmeuse lining

Pattern alterations:  Well, first of all, I lined this.  Burda suggests canvas for the fabric, and the ramie, although it’s a fall weight, would be a bit warmer with the silk lining  and it would make the inside of the garment pretty.

I left off the mock breast pocket on the left front.  It was a strip of twill tape with grommets stitched to the outer shell.  Frankly, I couldn’t be bothered.Burda 03-2013-119 frontI did not cut two 114 cm long strips of bias for the cord casing.  The ramie frayed like crazy and it was a lot like linen to press except that it was a lot more stubborn to shape.  I just used grosgrain ribbon.  To my mind it would be a lot stronger without the risk of fraying or falling apart.  cape interiorI treated the silk as a separate lining and once the shell was constructed and the cord attached, I attached the lining to the garment along the “sleeve” seams at the front and back to keep it in place with short basting stitches through the seam allowances from the wrong side. Then I faced the hem and sleeves, and attached the hood, catching the silk inside the facings.  I also double interfaced the visor.  I didn’t use buckram – too stiff – but I wanted something that came close.Burda 03-2013-119From a practical point of view, this garment is pretty ridiculous.  The sleeves – if you can call them that – fall at the wrist when you’re standing doing nothing but mostly sit at the 3/4 length and when it’s tied, you can’t raise your arms.   I have to be careful about making sure my arms are not restricted when I’m driving, and the cape shape is attractive to odds and ends that grab it while I’m out shopping or whatever.  It’s not particularly warm and the velcro fastening of the hood is quite annoying when it’s closed, yet the neck is too wide and low to look good with a scarf.

*shrug*  But what can I say?  It’s one of those “out there” pieces that I really like.  Would I sew it again?  Probably.  It would be fantastic in red linen.  Would I recommend it to others?  Not necessarily, because it’s really not a functioning cape/outerwear piece.  It’s more like an oversized ridiculous poncho without the freedom of movement for arms that a poncho provides, and a whole lot of details that are rather pointless.

But I’ve worn it almost every day since I finished it, and it was super fun to make!Burda 03-2013-119 pockets

The Mud Maxi Skirt

Burda 3-2013-123 skirt I’ve always like long skirts. Ball skirts in particular.  I know maxi skirts and dresses have been staples of summer wear for a few years now, but not being the one to really want to jump out on a trend limb (I’d rather be odd), I’ve taken my time walking around the long-skirts-for-summer trend. But having decided to join the 2013 Burda Challenge and actually purposefully make one garment from each issue of Burda during 2013, I thought it would be fun to make up the long tiered skirt in a this embroidered mud-stained looking cotton voile.B 03-2013-123It’s pretty basic – tiers getting progressively longer, gathered into the previous tier.  The only pattern piece was the shaped yoke.  And I didn’t have an invisible zip in the right colour, so I cannibalized an old skirt that was on it’s way to the thrift shop because the silk linen grew in wonky ways over the years and the hem was very sorry to look at. It couldn’t be evened out unless I took of the trim and the lower band and evened out the skirt itself. Too much work for a skirt that I wasn’t wearing much anyways. Oh, and I took the lining from it, too, because I always like lined skirts.B 03-2013-123 liningThe lining looks super short, but it comes to about 2 inches above my knee.  Here’s the back view.  The bottom tier is 5 metres of fabric.

Burda 3-2013-123 back It’s a plain, boring old colour, but I like the “staple-ness” of it.  No statement, just an interesting twist on an every-day skirt.Burda 3-2013-123 tiers