This dress was an experiment in sizing. I am right in the middle of Burda regular and plus sizing, and I was interested in how a plus pattern for wovens would stack up against a regular size. I chose this dress from the May 2012 issue. I really liked the line drawing, and draping and V-necks are two of my favourite design elements. My fabric is a digital printed cotton voile, and I’m happy that everything for this dress was from stash!I cut the size indicated by my full bust measurement. I wanted to see how this compared to cutting my upper chest measurement and doing an FBA. I shortened the waist by 2 inches, which is a standard short-waist adjustment for me, and cut the fronts with 2 inch seam allowances.
Verdict: the smaller size with the FBA would have been a better fit across the chest and through the armscyes. As it was, I needed to ease in 2 inches along the length of each neckline to get the neckline to lie snug and avoid wardrobe malfunction, and it was a good thing I cut a 2″ seam allowance through the armscyes. I needed that much to get enough coverage and avoid gaping armholes.
The one odd thing about this pattern was the right front. In order to get the fit and drape through the waist and hips (surprise on the hips) I had to trim 1 1/2″ off the entire right side seam. Not the left, just the right. A drafting issue? Anyways, I wore the dress today, and it was super comfortable and cool. The back fits well after tweaking the fit through the waist, and I really like the silhouette of the a-line skirt. The dress is fully lined, but I drafted facings to give the edges a nicer finish. Well, two summer dresses down and one to go! I’m almost at the end of my late summer projects.