Burda 09/2010 #114

Do you ever hem and haw indefinitely about what interfacing to use for a project? I’ll confess I usually don’t. I test scraps and decide on the support that I want. Fast decision based on results. Except when I sew with silk.

I interfaced my BLTN blouse with silk organza. The satin silk chiffon I used for the blouse didn’t need a crisp amount of support, so the silk organza worked wonderfully. I like how it made for clean crisp buttonholes. It provides adequate support for the buttons.

I used a double layer of organza in the front facing, extending only to the CF of the facing. I used the same double layer of organza in the collar stand and the collar.

The second layer of organza is stitched to the first down the centre front of each piece.

Each interfacing piece was stitched right sides together with the facings, turned, understitched and pressed. This provided a really nice finish for the inside of the blouse.

What to use for this project was a bit of a conundrum for me. I confess I have this heebie-jeebie thing about fusing unknown gluey kinds of products to silk. I know interfacings are all good and dandy and so much improved from what they used to be eons ago. I also know that fusibles are the most popular interfacings out there.

But I just can’t bring myself to heat up glue to attach interfacing fabric to silk for some unknown reason. I think I’m afraid it will eventually ruin the silk. I mean, what exactly is in the glue, anyway? Is it silk-friendly? So I inevitably create a lot more work when I have a silk project on the go, because I will always use a sew-in interfacing.

Does anyone else have this ~~problem~~ hesitation to fuse silk? And if you don’t could you please share your experience and reasons with me?

I really wanted to participate in the jungle that was January. I had a jungle Tiramisu in the mental planning stages to be done prior to my vacation, but it just never happened because, well, life happens regularly with three children at home during holidays. I’m not whining, I’m just stating a fact that all moms understand: Plans change, interruptions happen constantly, and, well, projects don’t materialize!

But I am pleased to say, that despite the horrid cold (and y’all know reptiles go comatose in the cold) that I’ve managed to wake this one up and convince it to be sewn and photographed. Hooray!!! I finished it last night. I hate being late, but in this case, I’m happy with the very annoying adage that’s titling this post. ‘Cuz I really like this loose trenchy take on a silk chiffon blouse from Burda 9/2010 #114. I wasn’t sure this would work – the trench style as a chiffon blouse – and thought I’d experiment. Then, of course, I realized that it just had to work. I used shell buttons, and you can see the cuff tabs with working buttonholes.

There is virtually no shape to this blouse, but it floats about beautifully while being worn. The back is very loose-fitting with a deep 8 inch pleat.

I did my standard FBA and left it at that. I debated about making it a bit more fitted, but it’s nice to have a different silhouette in my closet.

And the sleeves gave me grief – Burda’s ALWAYS give me grief. Vogue’s shoulders fit me perfectly, but Burda’s require a bit of alteration. I always have to re-draft the armscye, adding 1 inch (2.5 cm) of width at the shoulder blades, and taking out the same amount on the front. It’s like Burda’s sleeves are drafted for narrow backs and very broad pectorals. In my mind, I think they have the shape of the armscye and sleeve head reversed: the width that should be in the back is in the front in their set-in sleeves.

Yes, that’s construction – my kitchen is about to be renovated, and DD1’s graffiti art is the only thing left on the art wall! Anyways, after futzing with that fitting problem (because I didn’t do a toile, of course!!! *handforehead*) it’s done and ready to wear!