A Plethora of New Tops

MMM15 Day 12-2

So I’ve been sewing up a few new tops.  The first one is Burda 7/2012 #136, without the ties.  No comment on the ties.

134_0712_b_largeI’ve been wanting to use fabrics I’ve been collecting over the last few years, and this combination of 14 oz rayon-lycra jersey in oatmeal and the scraps from my chocolate Burda 1/2013 #119 seemed to fit the bill. The chocolate jersey is 11 oz, and it doesn’t have the heft of the oatmeal fabric, but it manages. The bands are cut on the cross grain, on a fold, so the folded edge is the neckline. I had to do some tweaking to get the angles of the shoulder, CF and CB seams just right in order to feel secure in this top. The neckline sits (quite) wide. I ended up putting bra keepers in the shoulder seams just for added peace of mind. If you look at the Russian Burda site, lots of versions of this sexy neckline just slip off shoulders coyly. I’m not so coy, so I made the shoulders secure.

Burda 7-2012-136 side

The next top is my go-to for tees.  I just love the fit, neckline and little gathered raglan sleeves of this design:  Burda 02/2013 #126.

I have two versions that are new to me.  First, the crocodile print.

MMM15 Day 6

And then the polka dot one, upcycled from my purged McCardell dress.

MMM15 Day 7

There was so much fabric in that skirt, that I also made a second version in a bigger size of Burda 09/2011 #106. I don’t know what it is about that dotty jersey, but I just love it. Must be the combo of chocolate and olive.

And last, but not least, this little number from Burda 06/2014 #103. 103_062014_b_largeI didn’t quite have enough linen fabric to cut the required length, since this came in a package of roll ends from EOS.  So I added tiers to the bottom.  It’s rather loose, contrary to what the photos look like, which is a good thing.

Burda 6-2014-103 linen top

Here’s a detail shot of the shoulder.

Burda 6-2014-103 liberty

The jersey is intersected by petersham ribbon, which has been edged with bias binding.  It creates a structure from which the jersey literally hangs.  Brilliant.

Burda 6-2014-103 trim back

I used a Liberty Arts Fabric print, and I cannot for the life of me find the name of it.  If you know, please share it in the comments!

Burda 6-2014-103 linen top back

I love the linen jersey.  It’s so light and comfy and luxurious.  It was a PITA to cut, though, because the grain was all skewed.  In retrospect, I coulda/shoulda used petersham in a more contrasting colour to make the binding pop a bit more.  But this is subtle, and I’m happy to wear it, as I am all these new tops!  I did make up one more top in a coral jersey, but the pattern (and solid colour) was all wrong, so I thrifted it.  Well, five keepers out of six ain’t bad! And I’m happy to be sewing my stash!

Do you like sewing new tee patterns, or go for TNTs?

Burda Challenge: Burda 3/2013 #119 – The Cape

Burda 03-2013-119 tiedI got distracted from another pair of jeans by this cape from Burda’s March 2013 issue.  I just fell in love with it the first time I saw it, and Burda had the goodness to publish it in three colours:  mustard yellow, red and a dark khaki – the colour in which  I’ve made up my version.Burda 3-2013-119This was a super fun project for me.  I don’t own anything remotely similar to this, and I like odd pieces that could potentially get a lot of wear.  I had some 100% ramie in my stash, and I laundered it several times in hot water and in a hot dryer in order to minimize shrinkage and hopefully get that “washed linen” look.  The washed linen look never occurred, and the fabric gave off a tremendous amount of lint in my dryer, but I am confident that this garment will never shrink.

Burda 03-2013-119 hoodSee how short the sleeves are when ones arms are raised? Impractical from a warmth/protection from the elements point of view. It has a hood which, in my opinion, is completely useless. But it looks nice from the back.Burda 03-2013-119 back 3I enjoyed putting this garment together because it required several things with which I don’t usually work:  cord, grommets, velcro, D-rings and a brass-toothed separating zipper.  I learned that shortening a zipper with brass teeth does require a pair of nips in order to not wreak havoc on the zipper’s tape by pulling the teeth out one by one before plying them open.  Anyways, I also learned that I’m better at handling a metal zipper than my DH, who gamely offered to help me use his pliers.  😉  Burda 03-2013-119 detailsFabric used:  100% ramie shell, washed silk charmeuse lining

Pattern alterations:  Well, first of all, I lined this.  Burda suggests canvas for the fabric, and the ramie, although it’s a fall weight, would be a bit warmer with the silk lining  and it would make the inside of the garment pretty.

I left off the mock breast pocket on the left front.  It was a strip of twill tape with grommets stitched to the outer shell.  Frankly, I couldn’t be bothered.Burda 03-2013-119 frontI did not cut two 114 cm long strips of bias for the cord casing.  The ramie frayed like crazy and it was a lot like linen to press except that it was a lot more stubborn to shape.  I just used grosgrain ribbon.  To my mind it would be a lot stronger without the risk of fraying or falling apart.  cape interiorI treated the silk as a separate lining and once the shell was constructed and the cord attached, I attached the lining to the garment along the “sleeve” seams at the front and back to keep it in place with short basting stitches through the seam allowances from the wrong side. Then I faced the hem and sleeves, and attached the hood, catching the silk inside the facings.  I also double interfaced the visor.  I didn’t use buckram – too stiff – but I wanted something that came close.Burda 03-2013-119From a practical point of view, this garment is pretty ridiculous.  The sleeves – if you can call them that – fall at the wrist when you’re standing doing nothing but mostly sit at the 3/4 length and when it’s tied, you can’t raise your arms.   I have to be careful about making sure my arms are not restricted when I’m driving, and the cape shape is attractive to odds and ends that grab it while I’m out shopping or whatever.  It’s not particularly warm and the velcro fastening of the hood is quite annoying when it’s closed, yet the neck is too wide and low to look good with a scarf.

*shrug*  But what can I say?  It’s one of those “out there” pieces that I really like.  Would I sew it again?  Probably.  It would be fantastic in red linen.  Would I recommend it to others?  Not necessarily, because it’s really not a functioning cape/outerwear piece.  It’s more like an oversized ridiculous poncho without the freedom of movement for arms that a poncho provides, and a whole lot of details that are rather pointless.

But I’ve worn it almost every day since I finished it, and it was super fun to make!Burda 03-2013-119 pockets

Vogue 8094 in Chocolate!

This is my third pair of capris currently in circulation from Vogue 8094, and I promise I’ll make up something new and exciting from a different pattern for my next post!  But I love chocolate brown – it’s the black in my wardrobe – and I wanted a pair of capris in this staple colour for my summer days!   Vogue 8094 brownThere is nothing new that I have to say about these except that I put a crease in the legs for something different (not being super creative like some of you, I couldn’t come up with dyeing, embroidery or applique that would have suited my rather conservative tastes) and left the zip at the CB. I think I’ve almost got the fit nailed on these, too, compared to the previous two pairs, which I shall alter to mimic the fit on these.  This is the mandatory front mug shot.  I still have to figure out how to get rid of the extra fabric across the front of the crotch. I must say it’s more horridly noticeable while standing stock straight for fitting purposes than it appears to be in the rest of my “living” pictures.  *sigh*

IMG_0581And the back mug shot.  This pair’s fit is much improved from my previous pair.  Not perfect, but we’re getting there.  I cannot believe how much adjustment to the crotch is necessary on these casual pants.  I have never had to do this much tweaking and adjusting and crying and leaving-them-alone with dress pants.Vogue 8094 backIt’s been a learning process, like all of my sewing, and I’m was rather encouraged this morning after scooping out MORE of the backside.  I’ll be scooping more on the green ones I made yesterday, too.  And the original rust-coloured ones.Vogue 8094 dark

New Capris!

Vogue 8096 capris

I really need capris and summer trousers.  I’m not a shorts person at all.  I haven’t actually worn a pair since my DD3 was born 9 years ago, and prior to that I’ve only ever owned about three pairs.  But I like capris, and the only pair I currently own is my trusty rust-coloured pair from OOP .  And since I trashed a couple of skirts this spring because the hems were sagging and the other was bagging, I need new bottoms.  This pattern is fairly straight forward, but my alterations don’t make it so straightforward.  However, since this is my 3rd go at this pattern, I think I’ve tweaked it into submission.

side zipI decided to put in a side zip this time.  I chose a lapped insertion because it’s strong, and I hate invisible zips that die.  The fabric is a lighter poly-cotton twill, and I intend to wear these capris until they fall apart or I get sick of them or (God forbid) I grow or shrink out of them.  To keep the zipper from inching down, I added a button tab on the inside.  The facing is interfaced cotton from my stash.

inside zip tab

And now for the obligatory mug shots.  I’m sure Mrs. Mole will say I need to drop the crotch even more than I have, but that will wait for the next pair.  I honestly scramble to make these up this morning so I had something to wear besides PJ’s or sweat pants.

Vogue 8096 front

This is before adjusting the crotch.

Vogue 8096 back

And this is afterwards.  I can see that I probably could lower it yet another 5/8″, and will for the next pair, or when I take these off at the end of the day!  ha-ha!

Vogue 8096 droppedThe only little bit of interestingness I added to these were little tabs at the outside cuffs.  They serve absolutely no purpose but as a place for my brass buttons.  Yay for a new pair of capris!

see the tabs

Burda 09/2011 #106: My favourite top

In honour of Me-Made-May’s weekly challenge, I whipped up this new top just this morning!  It’s green day today, and I wanted to have a green top.  I have lots of green in my closet, but didn’t want to wear any of it.  This fabric is a lovely lightweight jersey from EmmaOneSock that I bought last year, I think.  It’s got a wonderful swirly pattern in the entire range of green that exists, from dark forest to a very yellowy chartreuse.IMG_1450It’s so easy to whip up a new one that I find myself turning to it again and again.  Today I made up a new short-sleeved version, although I did not do the lined sleeve as per Burda’s instructions.  I simply cut the larger sleeve, gathered the top and ran a length of elastic through the sleeve hem.  I like it with sleeves!IMG_1452Here is another sleeveless version of it.  You’ve seen my original version here.  It’s another top in regular rotation these days.  The fabric below wasn’t the perfect choice for this pattern.  It’s a stretch woven polyester with metallic and was in the “roll ends” section of EmmaOneSock. It probably would have been better as a skirt – it’s got amazing recovery, but I really couldn’t see myself wearing a skirt out of a weird coloured fabric.  It reminded me of something vintage – it’s such an odd plasticky-peachy-silly-putty colour – but I’m not sure what in my memory jogged that connection.b ss2011 421 contrast bindingI used the reverse for the neck and armhole bindings, and no, I’m not grinning at someone just before I put them out of their earthly misery with my cast-iron skillet. This photo is actually from the Me-Made-May first Friday challenge “food”.  I’m wearing my Burda breezy skirt with the top.mmm5 cooking

I also made this top from silk jersey remnants, but because I was working with bits of fabric instead of complete yardage, the pattern didn’t work out so well.  I wore it twice, and this is the only evidence, as it left my house for the thrift shop.  Yes, it looked that bad!7170843688_9409a9cc6f_b