Burda 04/2017 #106: Joggers

Burda 04-2017-106 side

I made these for DD1 earlier this year from a medium-weight 100% tencel fabric, as she needed basic black pieces for a job this past summer.

Burda 04-2017-106

I made no changes to the pattern except to omit the waist ties, at her request, and she agreed to let me share them with you on the condition her face wouldn’t be seen. *sigh*  Her only other request was that they would be ‘loose’.  I cut the size to match her hip measurements.

And I managed to find black zips for the pockets, which made me very happy. Fancy zippers are not easy to source here. Here they are zipped….

Burda 04-2017-106 details

…. and unzipped.

Burda 04-2017-106 pockets

They turned out to be a little too casual for work, so she’s only worn them a couple of times. They were fun to make, and I’m pleased with the zipped pockets.

Burda 04-2017-106 back

One Year Later: Vogue or Burda trouser block?

Since I can’t actually sew while my house is upside down and backwards, I thought I’d finally blog some things I’ve finished but never talked about.  Thanks for all your commiserating with me and the good wishes, too.  I cannot believe the withdrawal I am suffering through not being able to actually SIT DOWN AND SEW A SEAM.  However, the basement is dry and sanitized, so now I just need to wait for installers so everything can be put back into order and we’ll never know anything happened!

It’s almost exactly one year to the month since my first go at the skinnies from Vogue 1039.   After the saga of capris this past spring and the trouble and hassle and “it’s-better-than-it-was-but-I’m-still-not-satisfied” fitting journey, I thought I’d try my hand at these Donna Karan skinnines again with a stretch denim.

V1039.jpgNo particular reason except that in a fit of pique I thrifted all my RTW jeans and capris this spring and really really needed a pair of something to wear that wasn’t dressy, but that would keep me warmer than capris would through the coolish spring weather we’ve had this year.  And since I really truly do like that pleaty-pleat top but lack a pair of skinnies in a complementary colour, I thought I’d try another go and see if I couldn’t tweak the fit a little.  Ok.  A lot. And this is how I cheated – I mean tweaked.Burda 04-2013-114I traced off Burda 4/2013 #114 in my size (well, actually one size smaller because it’s a stretch fabric and my experience dictates going down a size with stretch fabrics) and laid each piece over the corresponding Vogue ones.  I should have taken a picture, but didn’t, of course. *handforehead* Let me just say that the difference was s.i.g.n.i.f.c.a.n.t. and similar to what you see between pattern pieces in this comparison post.  This was a good place to begin for tweaking or perfecting the fit on trousers for me.  Here is the front view.  I forgot to stand up straight (being so darned uncomfortable with the truthfulness of proper mug shots that I unconsciously avoid head-on poses), so you’ll have to believe me when I say the horizontal lines are not there when I’m standing straight.Vogue 1039 I have no intention of ever wearing these with my shirt tucked in, but as this is a sewing blog I know you’ll all appreciate the photos. ha ha (shudder)  The length of these skinnies is the Vogue length, which I’m very much on the meh side of the fence about.  Whatever.  This is a wearable muslin until the next pair. My favourite details:  the pocketses!Vogue 1039 pocketsMy thoughts after making these up without any adjustments to the Burda block:  Burda wins.  I need to add about 1 inch in length to the centre back and scoop out the back through the crotch a bit, but I just want to say that this is a much better place to begin fitting than any casual Vogue pant or capri pattern I have ever sewn (barring classic trousers). There’s been a lot of griping about the Big 4’s pattern blocks in sewing webland lately, and although I generally disagree for an entire blog post of reasons*, I can really see the point when it comes to trousers.  I cannot wait to trace off other Burda trouser patterns and see what happens.  Dare I say I’m a bit excited about this?Vogue 1039 pantsAfter reading a lot of blog posts about making jeans, fitting jeans, and wanting a few pairs that I liked in Burda mags over the last couple of years, I’ve acquired a very small stash of stretch denim to try this myself.  This is the first almost-successful go at it.  BTW, these photos were taken at the end of the day, and I’m really pleased with how the fabric held its shape.  It’s another stretch woven from EmmaOneSock.  I love the quality of her fabrics.

Oh, and I did take pics of my backside, but I’ll spare y’all that information.  Let’s just say that I really do need to scoop out the back.  I promise I’ll post pictures after I find an invisible zipper that won’t separate on me every single time I put these on.  Or maybe I’ll put in a fly zip.  But that would “ruin” the look of these.  This is the second zipper that’s unhinged itself on these.  stupid zipperThe first invisible zip was replaced by a regular zipper, but the side seams pulled away from it whilst zipped, which I thought was incredibly messy and ugly.  So I went hunting for another invisible zip, and it split on the second wearing.  I still haven’t decided what to do with this PITA conundrum.   A metal zipper like this (click for source)?  Any brilliant ideas?

Jackie Seamed Side Zip Skinny Trubador 2*Which will remain unwritten.  Suffice it to say that the more I sew the more I think muslins are in order more often than not – even for a t-shirt – and I really don’t see the point of trying to imitate casual RTW quality clothes at home.  It’s entertaining and amusing, but one-of-a-kind frosting makes my sewing heart sing, not copies of a basic t-shirt.  Just sayin’.

Vogue 8094 in Chocolate!

This is my third pair of capris currently in circulation from Vogue 8094, and I promise I’ll make up something new and exciting from a different pattern for my next post!  But I love chocolate brown – it’s the black in my wardrobe – and I wanted a pair of capris in this staple colour for my summer days!   Vogue 8094 brownThere is nothing new that I have to say about these except that I put a crease in the legs for something different (not being super creative like some of you, I couldn’t come up with dyeing, embroidery or applique that would have suited my rather conservative tastes) and left the zip at the CB. I think I’ve almost got the fit nailed on these, too, compared to the previous two pairs, which I shall alter to mimic the fit on these.  This is the mandatory front mug shot.  I still have to figure out how to get rid of the extra fabric across the front of the crotch. I must say it’s more horridly noticeable while standing stock straight for fitting purposes than it appears to be in the rest of my “living” pictures.  *sigh*

IMG_0581And the back mug shot.  This pair’s fit is much improved from my previous pair.  Not perfect, but we’re getting there.  I cannot believe how much adjustment to the crotch is necessary on these casual pants.  I have never had to do this much tweaking and adjusting and crying and leaving-them-alone with dress pants.Vogue 8094 backIt’s been a learning process, like all of my sewing, and I’m was rather encouraged this morning after scooping out MORE of the backside.  I’ll be scooping more on the green ones I made yesterday, too.  And the original rust-coloured ones.Vogue 8094 dark