Miss V’s Wardrobe 2016

I was looking through my blog posts and realized I had made a collection of new clothes for Miss V only just last year!  Amazing how time flies and yet seems so far away at the same time.

Miss V was here visiting home from Cambodia for the last 6 weeks, and she wanted new clothes.  So, for a change, we went fabric shopping together at the Fabricland closest to her and bought fabric for 3 tops, 2 trousers, 4 dresses and a cardigan.  I was all ready to start sewing two weeks ago, and then everyone under the age of 18 in my household got sick.  I still don’t know what they were ill with, but it was miserable for a while.  Needless to say, there was no sewing when there should have been sewing.  But I managed to get everything done, and reasonably well enough (considering how little fitting opportunities there were), and off on the plane in Miss V’s bags earlier this week.  This is more of a catalogue for my (future) self, but I thought you’d like to see what she chose this time.

Variations on Vogue 9595 (OOP). The pink is a stretch polyester brocade with a self-lined bodice. The cotton has a mock sarong overlay. Both of them have in-seam pockets (which I hate). She prefers gathers in the bodice to pleats.

Vogue 9595 variations

Vogue 1415.  I’ve actually made the trousers from this pattern twice for another client this summer.  It’s a gorgeous pattern, and there is so little fitting to be done. Of course they look dreadful pinned to the dress form.  They’re made of a polyester linen-look, lined with poly-cotton broadcloth (her choice).  Considering how hard it is to keep white white in Cambodia, these should be easy to clean.Vogue 1415 trousers

Vogue 2064 trousers in a woven, not the called-for knit.  It fits so well as a woven for Miss V. This is the same pattern that I used for her upcycled sari and purple trousers.  You’ll see the front needs some alterations, but, in my defense, Miss V requested that I make things a ‘bit small’ because she was going back into the sauna of Cambodia and would shed the extra that made these fit poorly through the waist/high hip.  They’ll sit at her natural waist soon enough!  🙂

Vogue 2064 trousers

I copied a Vera Wang jersey top that she had worn to shreds.  I was, thankfully, allowed to cut it all up so I could use it as a pattern.  I traced the pieces and trued them up.  It’s an interesting mock crossed drape front.  Miss V was so funny when I cut the pink striped one out for her to try as a muslin (unhemmed in the pictures below).  She danced around singing, ‘My top!  My favourite top!’  I made three iterations of this, and, unfortunately, didn’t have time to tweak the fit to make it perfect. But she was sooooo happy with them that I’m not going to sweat all the things that irritate me about these.  I’ll just make notes/adjustments on the pattern for next time.Miss V draped top

Marfy 1913.  This is such a gorgeous pattern.  Why haven’t I made this for myself yet?  Even DD3 wanted one for herself after seeing the pink paisley version on my dress form.

Marfy 1913 dresses

I also managed to get a cotton/silk top out of it for her wardrobe.

Marfy 1913 top

And I copied a cardigan that she loves.  It’s a waterfall  cardigan – well, a large rectangle (2 x .70m) with sleeves added at equidistant points from the CB fold, with enough fabric in the front to throw over one shoulder as a wrap.  I cut the sleeves on the bias, using the Vogue 2064 pattern. The fabric is a mystery jersey of some sort that(surprisingly) washed well.Miss V Cardigan

I sewed all long weekend to get this done, which I never do.  I always hold weekends sacrosanct for family time.  But it was so lovely having all my DDs and my DH around cooking, cleaning and planning while I just sewed.  I need to make an excuse to have that kind of sewing weekend without interruptions again.  😀

EuroCup 2016: Team Portugal Tee

With EuroCup in full swing, and living in a Portugal crazy household (my DH’s family is Portuguese), I thought some red-gold-green would be timely on the blog.  Let’s start with a TNT tee pattern, Burda 02-2013-126, in an appropriately patriotic colour block.

Burda 02-2006-114 khaki

I have always done the neck binding by folding a strip in half, stitching it right sides together to the neck edge, finishing the edges, pressing the seam allowance towards the garment and edgestitching it in place.  This time I followed Burda’s instructions and actually bound the neckline.  Slowly, carefully, and with a little unpicking here and there it worked quite nicely.

Burda 02-2013-126 Portugal

I added a skirt made from a stretch cotton and trousers. The trousers have since left my house because they were too wide and sat too low, and were too straight-legged and I just couldn’t be bothered altering them to fit properly because I didn’t like them enough in the first place.  Well, I liked the line drawing and the idea, but….

Portugual ensemble

Both patterns were from Burda 2006 issues.  I actually bought the skirt issue (February 2006) after coveting Allison’s version in denim a year ago.  It’s become my favourite summer skirt this year, edging out the wonderful Vogue 1247 for most wears so far this season.

I’ll be happy to wear the shirt in when Portugal plays in the semi-final next week.   And if it’s too cool for a tee, I’ve made a red-gold-green bomber jacket, which I’ll share in detail next time.

Tough Love Collection layered dress: Burda 2/2014 #123

Burda 2-2014-123 layered dressI often ask DD1 if she needs anything on a seasonal basis, and if so, what she would like to have in her closet.  Well, this little number from Burda’s February 2014 Tough Love collection caught her eye, and after looking at laces around town, we gave up on it because we just couldn’t find the perfect mix of mesh-lace-knits or what have you (Burda suggested two layers of mesh, but I  – being mom – suggested something more modest.)

Then, around Hallowe’en time, I wandered into my local Fabricland, and there was a remnant of this lovely spider web lace draped on a mannequin over fluorescent orange satin, and I grabbed it for $5, brought it home and had her look at it.  She loved it, and I made up the mesh overdress with the side ties pronto.  (As an aside, there was a bolt of this lace the first time we were looking for fabrics and she didn’t like it; I thought it was perfect because she hates flowery lace and this is so unusual.   But she’d forgotten she’d seen and dismissed it by the time the remnant came home….. 😀 ) Burda 2-2014-123 necklineI bound the neckline and the sleeve edges with bias silk chiffon.  The side ties are bias tubes, inserted through channels created by sewing narrow strips of fabric along either side of the side seams.  They can then be pulled to create ruching as the wearer desires.Burda 2-2014-123 tiesI left the hem edges raw, and the seams were double stitched and serged, pressed to one side and topstitched down in order to give some strength to this very holey lace.  The shoulders have channels with ribbons tacked down to create ruching, too.Burda 2-2014-123 detailsThen the overdress sat waiting for the perfect underdress fabric, which I eventually found on EOS. It’s a rayon-lycra doubleknit in two shades of grey.  I wanted this to be reversible, and decided to do a flat-fell seam with raw edges.  I don’t own a coverstitch machine, and this would have been the perfect project for it.Burda 2-2014-123 rawThe sleeve edges and hem were simply turned up and stitched with a stretch stitch, and the neckline was faced with a narrow strip of self-fabric cut on the cross grain, turned to the inside, and topstitched.  After pulling it on and off the mannequin and DD1 for fitting, I’m starting to see little fuzzy bits of yellowy-beige fibres  (which must be the lycra) along the unfinished edges. Here’s the dark side.Burda 2-2014-123 reversibleIt’s a perfectly respectable T-shirt dress on its own, although DD1 says it feels like a nightgown when she wears it without the overdress.  *whatever*  Here’s a couple of pics to show the light and dark side of the force underdress.

.Burda 2-2014-123     Burda 2-2014-123 dark
I personally prefer the dark side.  Here’s the back.Burda 2-2014-123

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 1/2013 #110 – The Dress

LATH dressSuch a cute little dress.  Burda calls this “an item to relax in.”  It’s cut for comfort (I’m quoting from the magazine) and is charmingly casual.  It features a wide neckline with edging and drawcord and cute raglan sleeves. Huh.   It’s a pretty simple make, but I made it more complicated – because I didn’t want it to be form-fitting – and added about 2 inches down the CF and CB.  I ended up with a tent.  My lovely darling DD1 walked in the door from school and said, “What’s up with the nightgown, mom?”  Wait.  Nightgown?  I know this is stay-at-home wear, but I wasn’t wanting this to look like a nightgown.  So I took out the width that I’d added and I must say that I like it a lot better.  Just for fun, here’s a tent picture.tent dressSee?  A little 80’s maternity wear. Not working.Much better without all that extra width.  The neckline detail is a very wide (about 10 inches) rectangle cut on the bias with a casing sewn in for the self-fabric ties.neckline detailI used a double layer of chiffon.  It was a bit fussy to sew, but it worked out well.  And I left off pockets.  I know, I know.  But I really dislike pockets, except when they’re in jeans or outerwear.  I never use them for anything.  Hmmmm…. maybe it still looks a bit nightgown-ish.  Definitely stay-at-home don’t-answer-the-door wear.  D’ya think slippers would improve the look?

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 7/2014 #114 Colour Blocked Tee

colour blocked topYeah.  This sort of top isn’t really my style, but I had just that right amount of fabric left over and thought I’d give it a try.114_072014_b_largeIt’s a nice idea, but I think I over-thought this top.  After tracing the pattern, I decided it needed an FBA to keep the deep V neckline from pulling askew.  And that wonked up the fit through the sides.  But let’s be honest here.  This is a schlep-around-the-house (notice I didn’t say lounge-around-the-house) because it just is… well.. it’s a bit too sporty or yoga-ish or yay-team looking for me.  I feel like I need to be 20 years younger with my hair in a perky pony tail, so I really didn’t care to tweak it more than what was necessary to keep it from looking like the definitive visual definition of ill-fitting.  Here’s the back.Burda 7-2014-114 backNo, I did not do a sway back adjustment.  Yes, I took out a good inch down that CB seam.  Yes, I really do have a narrow short back when I choose to stand up straight with my shoulders thrown back where they belong.  But the colour-blocking is nice, isn’t it?  I’m really liking it from the back, especially with the contrast fold-over waistband on the pants in this photo.

The only part of this top that really made me take my time was the contrast neck band.  That CF point needs to be perfect, y’know.  I didn’t interface the neck band, but I did fuse a mid-weight piece of interfacing over the bottom point of the neck.  Burda doesn’t tell you to reinforce it further by stitching along the seamlines before clipping the seam allowance to the point à la Vogue instructions, but I did it anyways.  The last thing I wanted was the point to pull or rip out of shape.  BTW, it’s really annoying that Burda doesn’t ever give the “stitch along seamlines in small stitches, pivoting at CF” instructions for reinforcing points and corners.  Do they seriously think only interfacing will keep a clipped reverse corner in shape?neck band pointAnyways, here’s the inside of the neck band CF point.  I really like it when I do something properly.interiorPerfect for housework, no? Or finishing up that wall plastering. Oh. Wait. That’s a job for DH. I’ll just do the clean up. After I run around the block in my sporty new yay-team top.

colour block home wear

LATH Wardrobe: Maxi Skirt & Tee

Burda 2-2013-126 teeThese are the next couple of pieces in my LATH wardrobe.  I’ve made the tee up twice before.  You can see the op-art version here and the second version here. I didn’t have a lot of the graphic rayon knit – about one metre or so.  It’s a great pattern, although it tends to fit a bit on the snug side.  I added 2 cm at the side seams through the waist, tapering out to an additional 3 cm at the hips.  As mentioned in my op-art post, Burda’s binding instructions for the neckline are horrible.  I just cannot do a bound neckline in a knit or jersey to save my life.  (Mind you, if it was to save my life, I’d probably try a lot harder.) So I just did the simple sure-fire edging that always works for knits.neck binding

And what about the skirt?  It’s a simple two-piece pattern (Burda 1/2013 #116).  Not much to say.  The only changes I made to the pattern were to taper from waist to hip to make the skirt piece fit into the rectangular waistband.  The pattern is a bit on the straight side, and I require a larger hip:waist ratio than what was drafted.  Here’s a pic of the skirt’s waistband with the tee tucked in.

Burda 1-2013-116What else can I say about these pieces?  They’re both comfy and they look good together.   I’m liking the tee – it will go with many other pieces besides the LATH wardrobe.  And I confess to wearing the skirt a couple of days in a row because it’s just so easy to wear.

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 1/2013 – Trousers & Top

The first couple of items from my Lounge-Around-the-House wardrobe are done: the long-sleeved top (Burda 1/2013 #119) and the trousers with the fold-over waistband (Burda 1/2013 #112). I must say, I am really liking this shirt. I already have two more cut out ready to sew.

Burda 1-2013-112 and 119
Construction still happening around this house. Will it ever end?

sleeve pattern

I like the fit of it – it’s not too snug or too loose – and the bias ruffle around the hem and neck are different from anything I’ve seen in tops.  I like it in the contrasting fabric instead of tone-on-tone as per Burda. The bottom bias strip is about 3 inches wide.chiffon trimThe neck trim is a 2-inch wide bias strip, folded in half and stitched to the neckline edge.chiffon neck edgeThe rayon knit from EOS is just divine.  I love the quality of it.  I would be happy with a stash of it in every single colourway.  But back to the top:  imho, the best part is the sleeves. ruched sleevesThey fit beautifully – just like a second skin – not tight and not loose – and the outside ruching is a nice touch.  I didn’t quite have enough fabric for this top, so I split the sleeve down the centre on the straight grain and cut it out as two separate pieces.  That sleeve piece is a fabric hog as is. It worked perfectly.  Actually, I think I preferred cutting the sleeve this way because it eliminated the dart at the top of the ruching and running it into the seam all the length of the sleeve.  split sleeveIn my mind’s eye I can see a fussy little pointy piece of fabric that won’t lay flat at the end of the dart.  So I’m happy with my fix.  Here’s a pic of the next one cut and ready to assemble.  split sleeveThe trousers are super comfy.  I added some length through the back crotch curve, and the fit is great. I’m really loving how Burda’s trousers fit these days.  That, and the little tricks I’ve learned over the last year about crotch depth and that crucial POM 2″ up from the bottom of the crotch.  The waistband is a rectangular piece of fabric about 14 inches wide, so it folds over.  I cut it from the lavender knit as I had run out of the dark purple.  trouser waistbandDid I mention they’re super comfy?loungewearPerfect for hanging around the house with a warm cup of tea.

Burda lounge-around-the-house wardrobe

I’ve always had a hankering for making an entire Burda capsule wardrobe for some reason.  I just love how they pull together an average of 10-12 pieces and they all work beautifully together.  I recently cleaned up my sewing area a teeny tiny titch, and had the sudden impulse to sew a lounge-about-the-house wardrobe, courtesy of the February 2013 issue of Burda, after emptying out a large bag of knits that have been collecting over the last 12 months or so.  After laying them all out, I decided on this colour scheme:fabric choicesFrom L to R:  dark purple lightweight RPL, rusty rayon knit from EOS, graphic rayon knit from EOS, lavender lightweight RPL, and silk chiffon along the bottom. After shopping my stash, I decided I’d use the silk chiffon instead of the suggested silk satin.  It’s lighter in weight, and I’ll double it if necessary to match the weight of the knits if necessary.  I have 3 metres each of the light and dark purple, about the same of the silk chiffon and around 1 metre each of the print and rust knits.  Here’s my plan:

1. long skirt dark purple (Burda 1/2013 #116)

2. knit pants in dark purple (Burda 1/2013 #112)3. dress with chiffon in light purple (Burda 1/2013 #110)

4. cardigan with attached scarf in chiffon (Burda 1/2013 #114)114_0113_b_large

5. ruched long-sleeved tee with chiffon trim in rust (Burda 1/2013 #119)119_0113_b_large

6. short-sleeve tee in graphic print (Burda 2/2013 #126)

7. possibly a chiffon blouse (Burda 4/2011 #114)

8. and, if I have enough fabric left, this colour block top (Burda 7/2014 #114)114_072014_b_largeAnd that should give me a pretty good capsule wardrobe for fall LATH (lounge-around-the-house) wear.

*all line drawings courtesy BurdaStyle.com and Burdastyle.ru

More Camo à la Burda

Burda 10-2013-107 frontAnother project completed in my Burda Challenge for 2013. And another dose of camouflage à la Burda’s October issue this year.  No weirdness here except the very commodious 80’s style batwings.

Burda 10-2013-107 mugBurda 10-2013-107 backBurda 10-2013-107 side

When DD1 first put this on her comment was, “It looks like a nightgown”.  Yup.  It hangs like a sack without the help of a belt.  But that’s a good thing, right?  Because a belt means you can make the skirt as short as you wish (since I wisely added a good 4 inches to the pattern).  HA!

The pattern is simple enough.  I made it up in a ponte knit so it’s warm for fall and winter.  The neck has a bias strip as a facing, which is turned to the inside and topstitched in place.  The placket was a bit fussy, but I stitched in the ditch and it’s as clean and neat a finish as one could wish for.  I was a bit concerned about the buttonholes, but they worked quite well on the interfaced ponte.  I must say I’ve never attempted buttonholes on a ponte knit before.Burda 10-2013-107 side backShe’s happy and has worn it several times although she keeps stealing my shoes.  But hey!  It suits her style and she’s pleased as punch, as is her seamstress.

And that’s my October 2013 Burda Challenge. Wish me luck to finish the challenge before December 31st!

Gold Chevron Vogue 1027

Vogue 1027  frintI’m grinning like a fiend because I’ve finally sat down at a sewing machine and sewn a few seams!  Woo hoo! This is the first of several stashbustin’-end-of-summer sewing projects before I wrap my head around several jackets that are needed this fall.

I waffled between another Tiramisu dress or my third Vogue 1027, but I really wanted a dress that would hide my waistline fluff instead of draw attention to it, and this light jersey with gold chevrons would be a little less than flattering, I thought, with a Tira midriff section. So the Donna Karan design won the argument.gold chevronsI made a slightly over-zealous FBA which gives the bodice a looser fit than the pattern design, but I’m OK with that.  I don’t like a knit garment to fit like a second skin.Vogue 1027 bindingsI used long narrow strips of fabric cut on the cross grain to finish the neckline and cap sleeves instead of hemming the neckline and using the shaped armhole facings.  This is my preferred finish for knits, but I’m sure you’ve all heard that every time I write a blog post about a knit garment.

I shortened the back by 2 inches – my usual short waist adjustment.  And I shortened the skirt by about 3 inches.  I think this length is summery and flattering.Vogue 1027I hadn’t hemmed the skirt prior to taking the pictures, but I have since folded up a narrow hem and double stitched it.  My new dress form made obtaining an even hem very simple.  One other change:  I added a tricot lining to the skirt.  This is the first yellow dress I’ve owned since I was a 6 year old, twirling in my MacLeod tartan sunburst pleated winter dress, and I’m liking!V 1027