LATH Wardrobe: Burda 4/2011 #114 Chiffon Top

This is the final piece of my LATH wardrobe.  I wanted to use up the little bit of chiffon left over from trimming the various pieces in this wardrobe.  I was hoping that it would be dark enough to not require a cami. Burda 4-2011-114 topIt’s a cute little top.  It just fit on about 1 yard of fabric.  It’s the cover top on the English version of the April 2011 Burda magazine.  There’s three tops (nos. 112 – 114) that are essentially the same with minor variations in finishing.  I chose to use the longer length (model 112), but finish it as per the instructions for model 114 (above) with neckline and armscye facings.  I didn’t want raw edges.silk chiffon facingsI used silk organza to interface the facings, but after facing the neck edge, I decided against doing anything other than bias facing for the armholes.Burda 4-2011-114 armscyeThe organza had just that little bit extra body that didn’t quite work for the chiffon in this design.  In fact, I ended up cutting out the facing on the front neckline because it wouldn’t lay properly and created more of a funnel-neck look, which I didn’t like, and it just would not lay flat.  In the end, it looks better just with the narrow bias facing tacked into place underneath the tiny pleats formed by the neckline gathers.  But it does sit high around the base of the neck.Burda 4-2011-114 necklineI left the facings in on the back neckline.Burda 4-2011-114 back facingI spotted a roll end at EOS of this gorgeous 4-ply silk crepe to make up a camisole for underneath this.  What a dream fabric.  I had exactly 60cm of fabric (a little over half a yard) for this cami.  I considered another Ruby, but decided against the seamed bodice, and chose the simple bias slip in this OOP Vogue 2784 by Donna Karan.  V2784, Misses' Dress and SlipI managed to cut the front and back with a length 3 inches below the drafted waistline, which was a little short.  So I pieced together bias pieces for a band around the lower edge.Vogue 2784 camiWorks well, the added length is perfect, and it’s that little something that was missing under the chiffon top.  I’m thinking I can wear both of these tops with other pieces in my closet and not limit them to LATH wear, too.

Well, folks, that’s a wrap!  I didn’t get every piece of the Burda capsule made, but there are enough pieces here to keep me lounging nicely for a while.  Until soon!

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 1/2013 #110 – The Dress

LATH dressSuch a cute little dress.  Burda calls this “an item to relax in.”  It’s cut for comfort (I’m quoting from the magazine) and is charmingly casual.  It features a wide neckline with edging and drawcord and cute raglan sleeves. Huh.   It’s a pretty simple make, but I made it more complicated – because I didn’t want it to be form-fitting – and added about 2 inches down the CF and CB.  I ended up with a tent.  My lovely darling DD1 walked in the door from school and said, “What’s up with the nightgown, mom?”  Wait.  Nightgown?  I know this is stay-at-home wear, but I wasn’t wanting this to look like a nightgown.  So I took out the width that I’d added and I must say that I like it a lot better.  Just for fun, here’s a tent picture.tent dressSee?  A little 80’s maternity wear. Not working.Much better without all that extra width.  The neckline detail is a very wide (about 10 inches) rectangle cut on the bias with a casing sewn in for the self-fabric ties.neckline detailI used a double layer of chiffon.  It was a bit fussy to sew, but it worked out well.  And I left off pockets.  I know, I know.  But I really dislike pockets, except when they’re in jeans or outerwear.  I never use them for anything.  Hmmmm…. maybe it still looks a bit nightgown-ish.  Definitely stay-at-home don’t-answer-the-door wear.  D’ya think slippers would improve the look?

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 7/2014 #114 Colour Blocked Tee

colour blocked topYeah.  This sort of top isn’t really my style, but I had just that right amount of fabric left over and thought I’d give it a try.114_072014_b_largeIt’s a nice idea, but I think I over-thought this top.  After tracing the pattern, I decided it needed an FBA to keep the deep V neckline from pulling askew.  And that wonked up the fit through the sides.  But let’s be honest here.  This is a schlep-around-the-house (notice I didn’t say lounge-around-the-house) because it just is… well.. it’s a bit too sporty or yoga-ish or yay-team looking for me.  I feel like I need to be 20 years younger with my hair in a perky pony tail, so I really didn’t care to tweak it more than what was necessary to keep it from looking like the definitive visual definition of ill-fitting.  Here’s the back.Burda 7-2014-114 backNo, I did not do a sway back adjustment.  Yes, I took out a good inch down that CB seam.  Yes, I really do have a narrow short back when I choose to stand up straight with my shoulders thrown back where they belong.  But the colour-blocking is nice, isn’t it?  I’m really liking it from the back, especially with the contrast fold-over waistband on the pants in this photo.

The only part of this top that really made me take my time was the contrast neck band.  That CF point needs to be perfect, y’know.  I didn’t interface the neck band, but I did fuse a mid-weight piece of interfacing over the bottom point of the neck.  Burda doesn’t tell you to reinforce it further by stitching along the seamlines before clipping the seam allowance to the point à la Vogue instructions, but I did it anyways.  The last thing I wanted was the point to pull or rip out of shape.  BTW, it’s really annoying that Burda doesn’t ever give the “stitch along seamlines in small stitches, pivoting at CF” instructions for reinforcing points and corners.  Do they seriously think only interfacing will keep a clipped reverse corner in shape?neck band pointAnyways, here’s the inside of the neck band CF point.  I really like it when I do something properly.interiorPerfect for housework, no? Or finishing up that wall plastering. Oh. Wait. That’s a job for DH. I’ll just do the clean up. After I run around the block in my sporty new yay-team top.

colour block home wear

LATH Wardrobe: Maxi Skirt & Tee

Burda 2-2013-126 teeThese are the next couple of pieces in my LATH wardrobe.  I’ve made the tee up twice before.  You can see the op-art version here and the second version here. I didn’t have a lot of the graphic rayon knit – about one metre or so.  It’s a great pattern, although it tends to fit a bit on the snug side.  I added 2 cm at the side seams through the waist, tapering out to an additional 3 cm at the hips.  As mentioned in my op-art post, Burda’s binding instructions for the neckline are horrible.  I just cannot do a bound neckline in a knit or jersey to save my life.  (Mind you, if it was to save my life, I’d probably try a lot harder.) So I just did the simple sure-fire edging that always works for knits.neck binding

And what about the skirt?  It’s a simple two-piece pattern (Burda 1/2013 #116).  Not much to say.  The only changes I made to the pattern were to taper from waist to hip to make the skirt piece fit into the rectangular waistband.  The pattern is a bit on the straight side, and I require a larger hip:waist ratio than what was drafted.  Here’s a pic of the skirt’s waistband with the tee tucked in.

Burda 1-2013-116What else can I say about these pieces?  They’re both comfy and they look good together.   I’m liking the tee – it will go with many other pieces besides the LATH wardrobe.  And I confess to wearing the skirt a couple of days in a row because it’s just so easy to wear.

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 1/2013 #114 Scarf Cardigan

Hmmm…  When I first put this on and took photos, I wasn’t too sure about it because of the front chiffon scarf-thingy.  But today, after getting a bit chilly, I am pleasantly pleased with the warmth of the silk and how flowy this is.  I like flowy for some reason, even if it can look a bit like a sail in full wind.Burda 1-2013-114 frontI thought – when I first looked at this pattern – that the chiffon was attached to the front edge of the cardigan, in order to mimic the look of a long scarf. But it’s actually a completely separate piece  attached at the shoulder and back neck seams. See?Burda 1-2013-114  inner jacket114_0113_b_largeThis is the “scarf jacket” from Burda 1/2013 #114.  It’s an easy and quick sew, apart from hemming the chiffon.  Burda suggests a tight overcast stitch, but I used a baby hem.  The bottom is only slightly curved, and I cut the long front/collar edge on the selvedge, which made turning and stitching it simple.  The back neck is supposed to be bound with a bias strip, but I decided to fold over the chiffon and stitch it to the back neck edge and leave off the bias binding.  The fit isn’t snug, and fits well over a long-sleeved shirt.  Here’s the back view.

... still plastering and sanding the walls ....
… still plastering and sanding the walls ….

Nothing much else to say about this. It’s warm and comfy to wear. Stay tuned for the next piece in this stay-at-home wardrobe. I’m on a roll!Burda 1-2013-114 side

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 1/2013 – Trousers & Top

The first couple of items from my Lounge-Around-the-House wardrobe are done: the long-sleeved top (Burda 1/2013 #119) and the trousers with the fold-over waistband (Burda 1/2013 #112). I must say, I am really liking this shirt. I already have two more cut out ready to sew.

Burda 1-2013-112 and 119
Construction still happening around this house. Will it ever end?

sleeve pattern

I like the fit of it – it’s not too snug or too loose – and the bias ruffle around the hem and neck are different from anything I’ve seen in tops.  I like it in the contrasting fabric instead of tone-on-tone as per Burda. The bottom bias strip is about 3 inches wide.chiffon trimThe neck trim is a 2-inch wide bias strip, folded in half and stitched to the neckline edge.chiffon neck edgeThe rayon knit from EOS is just divine.  I love the quality of it.  I would be happy with a stash of it in every single colourway.  But back to the top:  imho, the best part is the sleeves. ruched sleevesThey fit beautifully – just like a second skin – not tight and not loose – and the outside ruching is a nice touch.  I didn’t quite have enough fabric for this top, so I split the sleeve down the centre on the straight grain and cut it out as two separate pieces.  That sleeve piece is a fabric hog as is. It worked perfectly.  Actually, I think I preferred cutting the sleeve this way because it eliminated the dart at the top of the ruching and running it into the seam all the length of the sleeve.  split sleeveIn my mind’s eye I can see a fussy little pointy piece of fabric that won’t lay flat at the end of the dart.  So I’m happy with my fix.  Here’s a pic of the next one cut and ready to assemble.  split sleeveThe trousers are super comfy.  I added some length through the back crotch curve, and the fit is great. I’m really loving how Burda’s trousers fit these days.  That, and the little tricks I’ve learned over the last year about crotch depth and that crucial POM 2″ up from the bottom of the crotch.  The waistband is a rectangular piece of fabric about 14 inches wide, so it folds over.  I cut it from the lavender knit as I had run out of the dark purple.  trouser waistbandDid I mention they’re super comfy?loungewearPerfect for hanging around the house with a warm cup of tea.

Burda lounge-around-the-house wardrobe

I’ve always had a hankering for making an entire Burda capsule wardrobe for some reason.  I just love how they pull together an average of 10-12 pieces and they all work beautifully together.  I recently cleaned up my sewing area a teeny tiny titch, and had the sudden impulse to sew a lounge-about-the-house wardrobe, courtesy of the February 2013 issue of Burda, after emptying out a large bag of knits that have been collecting over the last 12 months or so.  After laying them all out, I decided on this colour scheme:fabric choicesFrom L to R:  dark purple lightweight RPL, rusty rayon knit from EOS, graphic rayon knit from EOS, lavender lightweight RPL, and silk chiffon along the bottom. After shopping my stash, I decided I’d use the silk chiffon instead of the suggested silk satin.  It’s lighter in weight, and I’ll double it if necessary to match the weight of the knits if necessary.  I have 3 metres each of the light and dark purple, about the same of the silk chiffon and around 1 metre each of the print and rust knits.  Here’s my plan:

1. long skirt dark purple (Burda 1/2013 #116)

2. knit pants in dark purple (Burda 1/2013 #112)3. dress with chiffon in light purple (Burda 1/2013 #110)

4. cardigan with attached scarf in chiffon (Burda 1/2013 #114)114_0113_b_large

5. ruched long-sleeved tee with chiffon trim in rust (Burda 1/2013 #119)119_0113_b_large

6. short-sleeve tee in graphic print (Burda 2/2013 #126)

7. possibly a chiffon blouse (Burda 4/2011 #114)

8. and, if I have enough fabric left, this colour block top (Burda 7/2014 #114)114_072014_b_largeAnd that should give me a pretty good capsule wardrobe for fall LATH (lounge-around-the-house) wear.

*all line drawings courtesy BurdaStyle.com and Burdastyle.ru