Pyjamas

Burda 12-2014 pajamas

I have needed a decent set of pyjamas for a very long time, and was finally driven to cutting and sewing up two sets from Burda’s December 2014 issue.  The first set is the pyjama shirt and capris.  Each image below clicks through to the pattern itself over at BurdaStyle.

Burda 12/2014 #133Burda 12/2014 #135camisole top

The fabric is a cotton lawn purchased over a year ago for the intent of a smocked girl’s dress that never happened.  I used a black poly-cotton broadcloth for the piping, and left off the pockets.  I cannot see the use of pockets in bed. I also didn’t face the capri hemline, but rather serged the edges, turned, pressed and top stitched them.

PJ pants hemling piping

I left off the top button, too, so that the collar can lay open.

Collar piping

And I like the sleeve bands.

Shirt band with piping

I didn’t have enough fabric to do a proper FBA, but as I will definitely be making another set of PJ’s, I will do so next time.

As for the other pair, made of Liberty of London Felicite in a purple colourway (again purchased over a decade ago for a smocked dress), I used the same capri pattern.  I curved the vent edges and did a narrow turned hem.  I did put a pocket on this pair, although you cannot see it, and I never use it.  But I had the scraps, so I thought, why not?

useless pocket

The little camisole top gave me more pause for thought.  I did a 2″ FBA, cutting through the dart and re-drafting the upper bodice piece into two, as the interior shows below.

Burda 12-2014-123 interior

I used petersham ribbon for the straps, and left a 2 inch curved vent at the side seams hemline.

Burda pajamas Felicite

 Very comfortable, I must say.  I wonder it took me so long to make these.  And now that cooler weather is just around the corner, I’ll need to make a warmer set or two.

Salvage September Project 2

Remember this dress?

Well, it went into the “remake it pile” when I purged my closet.  I initially cut it apart with the intention of making another dress, but that went out the window once I’d laid out all the pieces and realized only the skirt was really going to be salvageable.  Burda classics 0015 blouseSo I traced off this little sleeveless number from Burda’s 2012 FW Classics issue.  There was just enough to squeeze it out, although I did end up piecing some of the facing.

Liberty Bea

I lengthened the back by an extra 4cm, hemming it with right-angle corners instead of grading it to meet the front length.  It means I can tuck it in securely at the back, or, when it is left untucked, have sufficient coverage when I sit or bend over.

Burda Classics 2012 #15

I’m quite happy with this little top, especially the collar.  And quite happy that I have a garment which will see more wear than the dress ever did.

Tie front blouse

 

Judy, by Liberty of London

Burda 1-2011-107 blouse

I have long had the intention of adding more shirts to my clothes rotation, but hadn’t had the motivation until this past week… well, two days ago, in fact, when I browsed through the PR website and thought I’d give the Sewing Bee 2015 a try.  What do I have to lose?  And it provided a reason to sew a new shirt.

Enter a vintage Liberty tana lawn called Judy.  I only had about 114_107_bs1101_mf_burda_6_01_065_original_large40 inches of full width yardage with a few decent-sized scraps left from Vogue 7340, which was sewn a few years ago.  I had hoped to make a Sewaholic Granville, or another Vogue 8747, but there wasn’t enough fabric.  So I turned to Burda and remembered I had traced of 1/2011 #107 a couple of years ago and done nothing with it.  So I cut out the traced pattern and after careful tissue fitting, determined the only adjustment I needed was to shorten the back waist.  I didn’t even need to do an FBA, believe it or not.  There is about 4″ of ease just across the bust, even for me, and I usually require a 1.5 or 2-inch FBA on tops.

shoulder detail

I did trim the seam allowances off the top of the fronts, tapering to nothing at the neckline, to facilitate a forward shoulder.

I made a few changes to the pattern.  First, I did not add petersham ribbon down the front bands.  I didn’t like the look much.

collar detail

I shortened the sleeve cuffs by about one inch.  I didn’t think I had short arms.

sleeve detail

But I will probably wear them open and turned up because I like the look of the ‘wings’.

Burda 1-2011-107 sleeve cuffs

The back inverted pleat gave me a little trouble, fitting it over the hips. I tapered it below the waist so that it followed the hip shape without flaring out like a sail.

Burda 1-2011-107 back

The collar gave me some grief.  It has a shaped stand that is sewn into an elongated “c” cut out of the collar.  You can see the pattern pieces here.  I used Fashion Sewing Supply’s “Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible” because I really love crisp shirt collars/cuffs/bands.  It is v.e.r.y. crisp, and I think this contributed to the difficulty I had attaching the collar to the stand. In the end I trimmed the seam allowances to a mere 1/4″, clipped them excessively, and it came together.

And there’s my new shirt.  (I don’t plan to wear it with these pants, btw, which I usually reserve for wear with the Donna Karan Big Shirt aka Vogue 1038. I just haven’t made a decent fitting pair of green-ish trousers that fit yet.)  I love Liberty tana lawn, so I know this will get a lot of wear, even as the weather cools down.  I’ve been pleasantly surprised at just how warm tana lawn can be over the years.

A Plethora of New Tops

MMM15 Day 12-2

So I’ve been sewing up a few new tops.  The first one is Burda 7/2012 #136, without the ties.  No comment on the ties.

134_0712_b_largeI’ve been wanting to use fabrics I’ve been collecting over the last few years, and this combination of 14 oz rayon-lycra jersey in oatmeal and the scraps from my chocolate Burda 1/2013 #119 seemed to fit the bill. The chocolate jersey is 11 oz, and it doesn’t have the heft of the oatmeal fabric, but it manages. The bands are cut on the cross grain, on a fold, so the folded edge is the neckline. I had to do some tweaking to get the angles of the shoulder, CF and CB seams just right in order to feel secure in this top. The neckline sits (quite) wide. I ended up putting bra keepers in the shoulder seams just for added peace of mind. If you look at the Russian Burda site, lots of versions of this sexy neckline just slip off shoulders coyly. I’m not so coy, so I made the shoulders secure.

Burda 7-2012-136 side

The next top is my go-to for tees.  I just love the fit, neckline and little gathered raglan sleeves of this design:  Burda 02/2013 #126.

I have two versions that are new to me.  First, the crocodile print.

MMM15 Day 6

And then the polka dot one, upcycled from my purged McCardell dress.

MMM15 Day 7

There was so much fabric in that skirt, that I also made a second version in a bigger size of Burda 09/2011 #106. I don’t know what it is about that dotty jersey, but I just love it. Must be the combo of chocolate and olive.

And last, but not least, this little number from Burda 06/2014 #103. 103_062014_b_largeI didn’t quite have enough linen fabric to cut the required length, since this came in a package of roll ends from EOS.  So I added tiers to the bottom.  It’s rather loose, contrary to what the photos look like, which is a good thing.

Burda 6-2014-103 linen top

Here’s a detail shot of the shoulder.

Burda 6-2014-103 liberty

The jersey is intersected by petersham ribbon, which has been edged with bias binding.  It creates a structure from which the jersey literally hangs.  Brilliant.

Burda 6-2014-103 trim back

I used a Liberty Arts Fabric print, and I cannot for the life of me find the name of it.  If you know, please share it in the comments!

Burda 6-2014-103 linen top back

I love the linen jersey.  It’s so light and comfy and luxurious.  It was a PITA to cut, though, because the grain was all skewed.  In retrospect, I coulda/shoulda used petersham in a more contrasting colour to make the binding pop a bit more.  But this is subtle, and I’m happy to wear it, as I am all these new tops!  I did make up one more top in a coral jersey, but the pattern (and solid colour) was all wrong, so I thrifted it.  Well, five keepers out of six ain’t bad! And I’m happy to be sewing my stash!

Do you like sewing new tee patterns, or go for TNTs?

Burda 2/2013 #122: Silk Xanthe Sunbeam

Burda 2-2013-122 redI love Liberty Art Fabrics.  All kinds.  All prints.  All qualities.  I have quite a stash of tana lawn and some wool, but I’ve never handled any of their silks.  Until DD1 set eyes upon this dress from Burda’s February 2013 issue. 122_0213_b_largeIt’s called the “City Dress”, and DD1 liked it because it’s modeled in red.  After hunting through my stash and going back and forth about the fabric, I noticed Burda mentioned Liberty as the fabric source.  So I searched through Shaukat, which their website claims is the largest stockist of Liberty fabrics in London.  Well, they had the design, Xanthe Sunbeam, in the red colourway, but in a satin crepe de chine.  I decided to splurge for my DD, and I don’t regret it.  It’s a gorgeous tightly woven silk with the most delicious hand.  There’s even a little left over for a top or blouse.xanthe sunbeamI went down to my local Mokuba to look for the petersham trim, and was shocked at the price per yard. Five to six dollars per yard for petersham ribbon?  Does anyone else think that’s absurd? I decided I could order rolls by tpetershamhe time I purchased the almost 3 yards required for this dress in the selection of colours I wanted to have from which  DD could choose.  So I bought a collection of reds-pinks-purples from TheSewingPlace, which were a lot more reasonably priced, even with the shipping, than paying what the local brick & mortar store wanted per yard.  What can I say?  I enjoy being a personal shopper for my kids. 🙂  Besides, multiple choices mean more stash.  *smug wink*Burda 2-2013-122 petersham trimI cut a straight size 38, and made no changes since the dress is so loose-fitting.  Except for that 3-inches-from-the-waist deep front slit.  Burda suggested putting a hook & eye closure at the top, and then again 5 inches down – probably about bust point level.  I cut and finished the slit as prescribed, since it’s a design feature.  See?  It’s open clear to the waistline. Burda 2-2013-122 bodiceThen I added a strip of fabric behind the slit for modesty and decency’s sake.  Besides, wearing a slip or camisole under this would not be DD1’s style.Burda 2-2013-122 modestyAnd I lined the skirt.  Because lining skirts is, imho, the proper way to make a skirt.  Linings make a garment modest to wear, ensure the garment hangs well, and contribute to a long life of happy wearing.  Besides, who wants to wear a silk crepe de chine dress that’s unlined in the skirt?  And, like I mentioned above, slips are not a first choice. Burda 2-2013-122 elastic The lining is rayon bemberg from stash.  Not quite a good match, but it’s close enough to do the job.   All the seams are sewn as French seams to keep things neat and tidy.Burda 2-2013-122 back

Impromptu: Portuguese Traditional Dress

IMG_5354DD3 mentioned last week that today was to be Spirit Day at school, and the required dress was her national heritage costume. She reminded me Tuesday evening, and again yesterday morning.

Profound moment of intense silence.  DD3 waits and looks expectantly at the resident miracle-worker a.k.a. MOMMY.  That would be me, still silent while frantically thinking at the speed of light.  “National heritage costume”, I say.  Oh, boy.  Oh boy, ohboy.

That’s a problem.  Which heritage shall we dress DD3 in for Heritage Clothing Day?  I am 5th generation Canadian, and my DH insists that he is Canadian first, regardless of his heritage.  Needless to say, we have a large pool of choices from which to pull the costume:  DH’s family immigrated from Portugal in the early 1960’s; my maternal grandmother’s family is Swiss German (immigrated late 19th century); and maternal grandfather’s family hails from England, with an honorary Scottish tartan apparently bestowed whilst helping some clan or other win their respective war.  On the paternal side:  Scottish, arrived this side of the Atlantic in 1895, to be precise.  I don’t have a kilt.  I don’t have typically Swiss clothing lying around, and nothing traditionally “English” with said family tartan and crest attached anywhere.  Therefore the only possibility is perhaps to make up something on one day’s notice for DD’s special day, since, of course, I didn’t do any thinking, planning or sewing for this most special of required dress!

Heck, why not?  I need yet another break distraction from the SWAP program, and costumes – like ball skirts – are just so much darn fun!  I love sewing completely unnecessary articles of clothing!  Seriously.  I’m not being facetious or sarcastic.  My yearly Christmas ball skirt is what keeps me going.  >_<

First thought – go with Burda’s traditional costumes, since it’s pretty close to the Swiss German thing going on.  But guess what?  The very particular issue of Burda (September 2011) that is chalk full of traditional dress in all sizes, is not anywhere that I can find in the sewing mess.  Botheration.  I refuse to pay to download – do I really want to tape all those damn pieces of paper together and have to pay for something I know is in this house somewhere?

B 9-2011

Second thought – Google Portuguese national dress and see what we can come up with.  Quite a lot, apparently.  Some very expensive on Etsy.  I want this, BTW.  It would be perfect for the family Christmas Eve!  fancy portuguese dress

Some quite simple to pull together from random articles of clothing in various daughters’ closets.  Simply because it’s black and white, and surely we can find gold jewellery in the dress up box.

gold portuguese clothingBut nothing will do for mommy, of course, who, after doing a couple hours’ research realizes that Portuguese traditional dress is very particular to regions.  Hmmm….. DH’s family is from the Azores, so northern Portugal is out.  Minho region is out.  Lisbon area is out.  Let’s Google Azorean traditional dress.azorean black capes

Voila!  I even found Christmas ornaments with traditional Portuguese dress.  Who knew?  Etsy is completely amazing!  And this particular little Christmas ornament was so darned cute, I actually ordered one. portuguese ornamentBut never mind that.  Back to the costume.   I need a black cape, which, apparently was typical of Azorean dress.  I randomly wonder if my MIL knows this.  DH says DD3 will look like the grim reaper in her black cape when I show him my inspiration photo (see Christmas ornament above).  He’s incorrigible sometimes, so I give him a look that Medusa would be proud of and go on my merry costuming way.

v 7110

I have Vogue 7110 in my stash, albeit in XL (for a very tall King David royal robe several years ago), but I can grade it down to, say… oh, I don’t know… a child’s size 134?  Sure! That’s what rulers and pens are for, right?  RIGHT!  Oh, and I need 4 m of black something.  But I don’t want to use any black something from my stash because I want the cape to be wearable in Canadian winter weather.  Actually, the truth is I just don’t want to use any of my lovely stretch black stash wool for a costume.  So off I drive like a crazy woman to the store and discover a wool/poly blend whose price has been slashed to affordability.  Perfect!  I can even wash it, thanks to the polyester, which I do as soon as I get home.

The cape goes together quickly.  It calls for velvet or lightweight wools.  Well, my wool is melton-weight and warm, but I decided to do the double hood anyways.  I trimmed the seam allowance from the self-lining and attach grosgrain ribbon in place of the supposed-to-be-turned-under seam allowance, which will cut down on the bulk.  And obviously save my machine, fingers and sanity.

hood lining

It’s very full.  My eldest “has plans” for it, she said as she tried it on.  Well, it’s warm enough to wear instead of a coat, that’s for sure.

IMG_5350

I used grosgrain for the single loop button closure.

cape front

And just for the fun of it (please excuse the mess – it’s garbage day today!) this is a shot of DD3 waiting for the bus with her backpack on underneath the cape.  It was my morning laugh.  Still chuckling as I look at this silly photo!

IMG_5356

Referring to the ornament (my inspiration), I see that 2 scarves are required.  I know there’s at least half a dozen scarves in the dress-up box that can be used for the shawl and the headscarf.

IMG_5335

I just need a dress.  Should I raid the Liberty stash?  For a costume…… uhhh…. NO.  (See how selfish I am with my precious stash fabrics? It’s shameful, really, especially when there is a lot more Liberty to be had for the paying out there in the big wide fabric world.) Although I do have some French cotton twill that wasn’t quite what I was expecting.  I could use that.  Or some gifted sari fabric, which would work quite well.  But no, of course I find other treasures in the right pennies range while shopping for the black required something, and come home with enough to make a very full skirt and a peasant top (Burda 05-2011-136).

IMG_5363

Perfect, but boring.  So into the Liberty stash we dive after all, because I know there’s fat quarters of some blue stuff in there somewhere (purchased to accompany said French cotton twill for a me-made version of a Robert Graham style shirt for DH’s birthday….. three years ago… and never made up for a variety of reasons, mostly, though, because the French cotton twill was so ridiculous).  And, of course, there’s the perfect little ditsy flowers of a print to make the stripes look just right.

shirt trimmings

And for the fun of it, I added little triangles to the hem side vents.  Well, actually, if Claudine hadn’t talked about hers here and here, I would honestly have never though to add this little detail.  But I liked hers, so I thought I’d try it on this.  And of course, did mine backwards!

shirt hem

For the skirt I cut two lengths of a wider striped fabric, pleated the front into a flat waistband that has raw-edged applique in the same Liberty print, and pleated the back into an elasticized waistband for easy dressing and possibly future wearing by other sized people.

pt waistband

DD3 has a petticoat, which I suggested wearing underneath for the additional fullness it would provide and the warmth of the top.  You can see more pictures of the petticoat here.

IMG_5340

And off to school she goes for the day!  That was a fun diversion, and now, back to serious sewing. *wink*

pt cape

Angelica Naylah

v8747I’ve made a shirt from a Liberty print in my stash called “Angelia Naylah” using Vogue 8747.  I really hemmed and hawed about this pattern, because most of the ones over at PatternReview are out of solids, and I really wasn’t liking any of them that much.  Then I found one out of a white/celery print, and it sold me on this pattern for this print.  I’m happy to say I probably still have enough yardage to get a sheath dress out of this, too.  What can I say?  I really like tana lawn.Angelica NaylahI really need to work on the fit through the back shoulders on shirts, but I’m afraid to make them too perfectly fit, because I want the wearing ease.  I must say this pattern fits wonderfully.  It’s a Custom-Fit, which I wasn’t too enthused about, because the last time I used a custom-fit pattern from Simplicity, there wasn’t enough room in their built-in FBA for me.  This Vogue custom fit is perfect.  It’s so nice not to have to tweak a pattern endlessly.  I know, some of you are muttering “make a sloper/block”.  I guess I should, but it’s just so much work to get one, y’know?  Don’t ask. My laziness is not always logical.  🙂IMG_2083The nice this about this pattern is that it has princess seams in the back, too, instead of darts.  I’m starting to not like darts so much for shaping through the back of garments for me because I require so much shaping and the darts can be very deep and ugly.  And I’m amazed at how sloping my shoulders are…

Here’s the side view.  I made the long-sleeved version with the full cuffs.  My only complaint is that there is not a proper sleeve placket included in the pattern, so if you want a real sleeve placket, you’ll have to draft your own or borrow one from another pattern.V8747 sideI really like the collar and curved front bands on this shirt. The small gathers at the CF through the bustline work for me, too.  And can I just put in a plug for Pam of Fashion Sewing Supply fame?  Oh. My. Goodness.  That woman is wonderful beyond words.  I used her super-crisp shirt interfacing for this little darling, and it is dream interfacing.  I have always HATED using fusible interfacings, especially on fine cotton shirts, but the the Pro-Woven she sells is divine.  I washed this shirt in my washer – not by hand – and the interfacing didn’t budge.  Didn’t bubble or buckle and there’s no horrid little glue dots that can occur with some interfacings.  If you haven’t ordered anything from her, do!  I just placed a big order the other week and nearly choked on her shipping charges to Canada, but God bless her, she wrote back a very thorough, long and patient explanation regarding weight and US shipping comparisons and I was just so amazed at the customer service she provided!  I am so glad that I used the Super-Crisp on this shirt.  I was a bit worried it would be too crisp for the lawn, but it’s really nice!  You know how many shirts I’ve trashed over the years because of crappy interfacing issues?  Not this one!  Thanks, Pam!IMG_2099