DD3 needed some new bottoms this past spring, so after looking through all the stretch denim available in Mom’s stash, she chose three fabrics, and three patterns. Here’s the collection. First up, another version of the shorts I’d made for her last summer. It’s a shortened version of Burda 6/2011 #110. It fit her well last year, and I didn’t want to re-think the fit on another pattern, so I re-measured to ensure it still fit, and started sewing.
The next project was capris, and she wanted them to be skinny, but not too skinny. So I opted for Burda 03/2014 #115. DD3 has a crotch depth of 11 inches – about one full inch longer than any standard block, and finding RTW trousers/jeans/shorts that fit her properly is a challenge. She’s inherited the long back crotch measurement, too, but the extra crotch depth means bottoms are always low-riding on her. As she prefers bottoms that sit at her natural waist, I altered the pattern using the slash-spread method to get the required depth. Here’s the first pair at a true capri length. The fabric for all these bottoms is from EmmaOneSock. You can find it in other colours here. This was a roll end, and I have enough fabric for shorts next year if she needs more. This fabric worked extremely well for these capris, and the fit is perfect. I don’t have any other photos of her wearing them at this point.The next pair was ankle length in a striped French stretch cotton blend, again from EmmaOneSock as a roll end. It’s lighter in weight and as a lot of stretch. I used the same pattern, but they refuse to sit at her natural waist without a belt once they’ve been stretched out through wearing. They’re her favourite pair, btw. (I’m too lazy to alter the waist yet again). I used a BurdaStyle idea for binding the pocket edges in bias strips. The denim (?) was lightweight enough to do it easily with a little help from my hammer for flattening the bulk.You can see in the pic above that the crotch depth appears to be too long, but the trousers are not actually sitting where she would like them to. I really should take in the waist some more. Here’s the back view.The fit is pretty good through the back. The fabric is really fun. She wasn’t too sure of it to begin with, but every time she puts these on, she tells me she really likes them.
Fitting trousers/jeans/short is always so challenging. The only trousers I’ve ever been able to fit without any wrinkles whatsoever are classic trousers, although these Burda patterns fit pretty darn well right off the tracing paper. I’d love to try Jalie 2908 (stretch jeans pattern) for fit on her. Next time.
As promised, here’s some camo! My youngest saw the baby blue camo and wanted capris. I purchased enough to make shorts, too, and sewed those up first using Burda 7/2013 #105.
Let’s just say I shouldn’t have deviated from the jean shorts pattern. She has a very long hip measurement, and these shorts were barely decent – a good 6 inches below her waist – and she was not comfortable wearing them. So I asked DD1 if she liked them, and she gamely tried them on.
After taking in the waist, they fit perfectly, although she wasn’t sure about the fullness in the fronts from the pleats. The tightly woven cotton fabric does have a bit of stiffness to it, which accentuates the pleats.However, she’s been wearing them a lot lately, so they must be comfortable. The pattern is a super-easy sew. They are quite short, and I added about 4 inches to the length. Shorts that hint at junk curves are not attractive. The cuffs are a nice touch, especially with the camo fabric, I think. Not quite what one would expect. The only other change I made was to leave off the belt loops. Next up, I’ll try to get a pic of the camo capris.
I’m avoiding my blue dress while I make up summer weather appropriate bottoms for DD3. She needed shorts, and she wanted them in denim, which is so appropriate since I’ve had a few runs at making a jean-style bottom recently! I used leftover yardage from my first pair of Jalie jeans for the dark pair. I didn’t distress them – just focused on fun topstitching.I used the trouser pattern Burda 6/2011 #110 and shortened the pattern to a mid-thigh length (inseam is about 4 inches hemmed). DD3 is quite conservative in her choice of style, and doesn’t like short shorts. I chose this pattern because of the 5-pocket jean styling, and because it’s drafted for non-stretch fabrics. Both my fabrics are stretch denim, but I wanted the extra wearability factor, which (I hope) will mean they will still fit her next year. She’s only 11 years old, but she’s as tall as I am and wearing the same size as DD1, who turns 16 this month. She’s going to be a taaaaaall girl. (I’m jealous in a proud sort of way.)
I put the coin pocket on the patterned denim, although you can’t see it at all and it’s too small to be functional for anything other than a coin. DH thought I was out of my mind trying to match the motifs for the back pockets and suggested it would be better if I centred each one over a motif and just applied them whichever way. Here’s the result:I think that pattern is so busy no one would pay attention to these details while they’re being worn. Lucky for me, because I’m not sure his idea worked to my satisfaction! And just ‘cuz this is a sewing blog, here’s one of the two fly zips. Next up on her summer wish list: blue camo!