Vogue 1412: Zig-zag chiffon

Vogue 1412

Sometimes you hope fabric and pattern design work out, and you end up with a winner. This is a winner, in my books.  The fabric is from my stash, and again, it’s from EmmaOneSock’s roll end page.  It’s a lovely silk chiffon with a myriad of colours – my favourite fabric for tops because they will coordinate with any number of bottoms, colourwise, anyways.

There’s only two reviews for this blouse (View B) on Pattern Review, and I cannot figure out why.  Maybe the style isn’t for everyone, or the pattern version is off-putting?  Anyways, I love my version!Image result for vogue 1412I did find the instructions for the front a little bit confusing the first time I read through them, but I told myself that if I can decipher BurdaStyle’s cryptic English translations, then I could do this.

Here’s the inside of the front before the folding, buttons and buttonholes have been completed. I used silk organza for a stabilizer, something Vogue doesn’t suggest, which is ridiculous if you’re adding buttons and buttonholes.

Vogue 1412 interior

This is what the front looks like once it’s all been completed while being worn.

Vogue 1412 buttons

I did a sloped forward shoulder adjustment and an FBA. And I’m pretty chuffed about how I managed to match the bands of colour for this top. There were literally unusable scraps left.

Vogue 1412 back

Oh, and the trousers are the first pair of the slim Burda 01/2016 #135 trio that I made; this pair is made from a stretch cotton sateen purchased at my local Fabricland. I absolutely love the quality of this fabric.

Vogue 1412 zigzag chiffon

And, just because I hated the samples of the machine-stitched narrow hem, I did this shirt by hand.

zigzag hem

Still need a lot of practice, even if this is macro shot!

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Marfy 1913: Pretty In Peach

Marfy 1913

I’m finally taking pictures of my sewing projects since April.  This is Marfy 1913, the blouse that everyone made a few years ago when Marfy released it as a free download.  I’ve made several for other people, including modifying the pattern so it’s dress length, but this is the first one I’ve made for me.

The fabric is from EOS.  It’s a silk crinkle chiffon with the prettiest floral design. There was just enough fabric that I could make the blouse double-layered, and match the colour design of the fabric.

Marfy 1913

Like everyone else who has made this pattern, I have plans for others. It’s not difficult to make, requires very little fabric, and is simple to alter.

peachy

The trousers in this outfit are Burda 1/2016 #135. https://i.pinimg.com/originals/31/96/bb/3196bb8eb848d56817516c5184f12091.jpg I’ve made three versions of them, which I’ll be sharing with you. I love the details, and I love how they fit. I’ve always shied away from slim fitting trousers, being a curvy shape. I dread looking like an inverted pyramid, but these seem to fit perfectly and they’re fun to make with all the seaming details.

Burda 01/2016 #135 seam details

The denim is an Italian denim is from EOS. This also was a roll end. I was pretty pleased with the quality when I made these purple jeans, so I jumped when I saw this roll end available. There was just enough to squeeze these trousers out of 1.3 yards.

B 1-2016-135 back

This denim has a lot of body to it, and feels quite different from the softer fabrics I made these trousers in, which changed how they fit. You’ll see this next time when I post pictures from Drumheller! I went on a road trip through my childhood haunts in Western Canada. These pictures today are at my grandmother’s farm in Alberta. It was a great trip, although I didn’t purposely photograph what I packed and wore. Anyways, it’s great to be back!

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 4/2011 #114 Chiffon Top

This is the final piece of my LATH wardrobe.  I wanted to use up the little bit of chiffon left over from trimming the various pieces in this wardrobe.  I was hoping that it would be dark enough to not require a cami. Burda 4-2011-114 topIt’s a cute little top.  It just fit on about 1 yard of fabric.  It’s the cover top on the English version of the April 2011 Burda magazine.  There’s three tops (nos. 112 – 114) that are essentially the same with minor variations in finishing.  I chose to use the longer length (model 112), but finish it as per the instructions for model 114 (above) with neckline and armscye facings.  I didn’t want raw edges.silk chiffon facingsI used silk organza to interface the facings, but after facing the neck edge, I decided against doing anything other than bias facing for the armholes.Burda 4-2011-114 armscyeThe organza had just that little bit extra body that didn’t quite work for the chiffon in this design.  In fact, I ended up cutting out the facing on the front neckline because it wouldn’t lay properly and created more of a funnel-neck look, which I didn’t like, and it just would not lay flat.  In the end, it looks better just with the narrow bias facing tacked into place underneath the tiny pleats formed by the neckline gathers.  But it does sit high around the base of the neck.Burda 4-2011-114 necklineI left the facings in on the back neckline.Burda 4-2011-114 back facingI spotted a roll end at EOS of this gorgeous 4-ply silk crepe to make up a camisole for underneath this.  What a dream fabric.  I had exactly 60cm of fabric (a little over half a yard) for this cami.  I considered another Ruby, but decided against the seamed bodice, and chose the simple bias slip in this OOP Vogue 2784 by Donna Karan.  V2784, Misses' Dress and SlipI managed to cut the front and back with a length 3 inches below the drafted waistline, which was a little short.  So I pieced together bias pieces for a band around the lower edge.Vogue 2784 camiWorks well, the added length is perfect, and it’s that little something that was missing under the chiffon top.  I’m thinking I can wear both of these tops with other pieces in my closet and not limit them to LATH wear, too.

Well, folks, that’s a wrap!  I didn’t get every piece of the Burda capsule made, but there are enough pieces here to keep me lounging nicely for a while.  Until soon!

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 1/2013 #110 – The Dress

LATH dressSuch a cute little dress.  Burda calls this “an item to relax in.”  It’s cut for comfort (I’m quoting from the magazine) and is charmingly casual.  It features a wide neckline with edging and drawcord and cute raglan sleeves. Huh.   It’s a pretty simple make, but I made it more complicated – because I didn’t want it to be form-fitting – and added about 2 inches down the CF and CB.  I ended up with a tent.  My lovely darling DD1 walked in the door from school and said, “What’s up with the nightgown, mom?”  Wait.  Nightgown?  I know this is stay-at-home wear, but I wasn’t wanting this to look like a nightgown.  So I took out the width that I’d added and I must say that I like it a lot better.  Just for fun, here’s a tent picture.tent dressSee?  A little 80’s maternity wear. Not working.Much better without all that extra width.  The neckline detail is a very wide (about 10 inches) rectangle cut on the bias with a casing sewn in for the self-fabric ties.neckline detailI used a double layer of chiffon.  It was a bit fussy to sew, but it worked out well.  And I left off pockets.  I know, I know.  But I really dislike pockets, except when they’re in jeans or outerwear.  I never use them for anything.  Hmmmm…. maybe it still looks a bit nightgown-ish.  Definitely stay-at-home don’t-answer-the-door wear.  D’ya think slippers would improve the look?

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 1/2013 #114 Scarf Cardigan

Hmmm…  When I first put this on and took photos, I wasn’t too sure about it because of the front chiffon scarf-thingy.  But today, after getting a bit chilly, I am pleasantly pleased with the warmth of the silk and how flowy this is.  I like flowy for some reason, even if it can look a bit like a sail in full wind.Burda 1-2013-114 frontI thought – when I first looked at this pattern – that the chiffon was attached to the front edge of the cardigan, in order to mimic the look of a long scarf. But it’s actually a completely separate piece  attached at the shoulder and back neck seams. See?Burda 1-2013-114  inner jacket114_0113_b_largeThis is the “scarf jacket” from Burda 1/2013 #114.  It’s an easy and quick sew, apart from hemming the chiffon.  Burda suggests a tight overcast stitch, but I used a baby hem.  The bottom is only slightly curved, and I cut the long front/collar edge on the selvedge, which made turning and stitching it simple.  The back neck is supposed to be bound with a bias strip, but I decided to fold over the chiffon and stitch it to the back neck edge and leave off the bias binding.  The fit isn’t snug, and fits well over a long-sleeved shirt.  Here’s the back view.

... still plastering and sanding the walls ....
… still plastering and sanding the walls ….

Nothing much else to say about this. It’s warm and comfy to wear. Stay tuned for the next piece in this stay-at-home wardrobe. I’m on a roll!Burda 1-2013-114 side

LATH Wardrobe: Burda 1/2013 – Trousers & Top

The first couple of items from my Lounge-Around-the-House wardrobe are done: the long-sleeved top (Burda 1/2013 #119) and the trousers with the fold-over waistband (Burda 1/2013 #112). I must say, I am really liking this shirt. I already have two more cut out ready to sew.

Burda 1-2013-112 and 119
Construction still happening around this house. Will it ever end?

sleeve pattern

I like the fit of it – it’s not too snug or too loose – and the bias ruffle around the hem and neck are different from anything I’ve seen in tops.  I like it in the contrasting fabric instead of tone-on-tone as per Burda. The bottom bias strip is about 3 inches wide.chiffon trimThe neck trim is a 2-inch wide bias strip, folded in half and stitched to the neckline edge.chiffon neck edgeThe rayon knit from EOS is just divine.  I love the quality of it.  I would be happy with a stash of it in every single colourway.  But back to the top:  imho, the best part is the sleeves. ruched sleevesThey fit beautifully – just like a second skin – not tight and not loose – and the outside ruching is a nice touch.  I didn’t quite have enough fabric for this top, so I split the sleeve down the centre on the straight grain and cut it out as two separate pieces.  That sleeve piece is a fabric hog as is. It worked perfectly.  Actually, I think I preferred cutting the sleeve this way because it eliminated the dart at the top of the ruching and running it into the seam all the length of the sleeve.  split sleeveIn my mind’s eye I can see a fussy little pointy piece of fabric that won’t lay flat at the end of the dart.  So I’m happy with my fix.  Here’s a pic of the next one cut and ready to assemble.  split sleeveThe trousers are super comfy.  I added some length through the back crotch curve, and the fit is great. I’m really loving how Burda’s trousers fit these days.  That, and the little tricks I’ve learned over the last year about crotch depth and that crucial POM 2″ up from the bottom of the crotch.  The waistband is a rectangular piece of fabric about 14 inches wide, so it folds over.  I cut it from the lavender knit as I had run out of the dark purple.  trouser waistbandDid I mention they’re super comfy?loungewearPerfect for hanging around the house with a warm cup of tea.

Animal Print: Vogue 1245

Vogue 1245I bought this fabric a couple of seasons ago from a sale table of silk georgettes, mostly because DD1 really liked the print.  Then it sat on a shelf, and I would periodically ask what she would like to do with it.  Well, earlier this summer I asked again, and she confessed she didn’t really know and that she wasn’t really sure she’d wear this particular fabric anyways.  😀  More for mommy to wear, said I, and got down to cutting out this Alice + Olivia top.
Vogue 1245 backI purchased the pattern about 3 years ago in DD1’s then-current size, and need to grade up one size for me.  I didn’t do any other adjustments to this pattern – I just sewed it up as it was drafted.  Rationale:  flouncy design, flowy fabric and a busy print would probably hide any picky-perfectionist fitting issues.
Vogue 1245 AWell, the top was made up quickly without any hassle other than the usual extra time required for accurately handling lightweight silks, and then it hung in my closet until this past week when I finally decided to wear it and take pics.  We’ve been having lovely warm fall weather and this was perfect to wear on a warm fall day.
Vogue 1245 detailThis top is super comfortable to wear, although the ties are quite long even pulled into laaaaaarge bows and kept getting in the way of unloading groceries, making dinner and general kids-are-home-from-school time chaos.  It’s light, floaty and it’s fun to wear something with flounces.  My green Ruby camisole is perfect underneath and added that little extra bit of warmth that’s always desired in the fall.  The cami is also modesty insurance.  I don’t know if you can see it, but the neckline has a narrow-hemmed slit opening at the CF, and it’s low.
Vogue 1245 frontIt’s nice to finally blog this top.  I enjoyed making it and was pleased with the result on the hanger, and wearing it was a lot of fun.  And may I just add this disclaimer:  the pattern matching on the front hem flounces is a completely random occurrence.  Every time I try to think through and analyze pattern placement it’s hit and miss.  When I just go with the fabric, it works.  Luck, or proof positive that over thinking things without the benefit of a scientific mind doesn’t work.
And peeps, I made a pair of jeans.  I can’t wait to show them to you, because I am dayum proud of myself!