Muslin required

Thank you all for commiserating with me over this jacket!  I must say, it’s the most expensive muslin I’ve ever made!  But there’s lessons to be learned here:

  • Always do a muslin, even if that means a simple tissue fitting!
  • Never neglect the required FBA, even on a jacket!
  • Don’t leave projects languishing for 6 years in the UFO pile.  Cut them and sew them up toute de suite!

Well, all is not lost.  As I said to my husband the other night, using cashmere as a muslin is still cheaper than attending a class, and I did learn something!  Isn’t that the point?  Always learning and improving our sewing skills.  Oodles of fitting problems here!

v2017 front v2017 back

Notes for next time (noted on the pattern!):

  • FBA required
  • Sway back adjustment
  • Add 2” to overall jacket length

I must say I was bummed a bit on Friday about this jacket, but on Saturday I thought, “Let’s move on!”

So I went on a cutting binge after putting the kids to bed.

Vogue 2396’s shirt in ivory stretch cotton (I think spring is just around the corner!)  I did not do an FBA, but I did do a tissue fit.  The bust measurement on the pattern was very generous:  47” for a size 16, which is what I normally cut to get the fit through the shoulders.

v2396 shirt

I decided I didn’t need an FBA for this shirt.  My main concern would be gaping at the CF, but there is a lot of overlap drafted into this shirt front.

v2396 tissue fit

Vogue 8287 shirt in a bronze crinkle taffeta.  Yup, I did my FBA. I made this shirt without an FBA about 5 years ago, and am re-making it with the FBA.  Need I say more? Smile


And Cinderella’s dress, but that’s a separate post.  I’m up after being knocked down!

Well, it’ll have to wait

For a different fabric in a different time, that is.  The green cashmere jacket a.k.a. Vogue 2017 is a wadder.

Every now and then I meet more than my match in fabric.  Mostly it’s because I don’t think through what I’m making with the fabric. I either choose the wrong design for the fabric, or the wrong fabric for the design (wrong fabric weight, drape, etc.).


Unfortunately, this cashmere falls into the "didn’t think it through" category.  It’s too lightweight for this pattern (which calls for tweed and gabardine!) and shows every single flaw in my arsenal of sewing skills. 

I do not like to work with fabrics that show up my lack of expertise. 

I much prefer fabrics that are loving…  forgiving… benevolent… kind…. You get the picture.  I don’t like perfectionist tendencies in fabrics.  It drives me crazy, makes me consider myself completely unskilled and frustrates me to the point of not caring about the economics of wadding a project.


Consider the bound buttonholes.  These are on the sleeves (what WAS I thinking?!?!?)  Six bound buttonholes on the sleeves, because I didn’t like the look of machine buttonholes… but bound buttonholes are not my forte.  I did practice.  I made 5 practice buttonholes, and was sort of happy with the last two….  And then I thought….. I have to face these damn buttonholes on the sleeves.  I repeat…

WHAT was I thinking?!?!

And the buttons…. I went hunting for buttons for this very odd-coloured fabric.  I found lovely buttons… Italian buttons… expensive buttons…


All for naught.  I even gave up on the hand topstitching because it didn’t match the topstitching in my mind’s eye.  I switched to machine…


So there!  I do not like the bound buttonholes on the sleeves, but once in, in forever.  And I’ve no extra fabric to recut the sleeve! 

Maybe I’ll finish up one sleeve, set it in and see how horrible it looks before actually giving it to the garbage collectors.  And maybe I should just go to bed….

Vogue 2017: The Ungaro Jacket

I’ve decided to get an unfinished object off my sewing table before diving into my Cavalli-inspired coat.  I cut this jacket out probably about 6 years ago, underlined it with silk organza and left it to languish in my box of wools.


Vogue 2017 is an OOP Vogue pattern from 1997 designed by Ungaro.  I’m planning to sew up only the jacket (View A without the pockets) in a dark sage-coloured cashmere, and, for a lark, I’m actually going to clock my hours making this thing up because I’ve set myself up for a very long hand-sewn project.  See?


The colour’s all wrong in this photo, but this will show you a little bit of what I’m doing.  All the darts – front and back, the cuffs and sleeve vents and the entire neckline and hem are topstitched with three rows of topstitching.   Now, I tried to make machine stitching look lovely on this cashmere fabric, but I didn’t like the look of it, or how it made the darts pucker.

So I’m going to do it all by hand.  And I’m going to clock my time, just for curiosity’s sake.

Today I spent 1.5 hours trying to get the darts to look right, and interfacing the fronts. I’m not going to bother adding in my previous hours for cutting or underlining, because I can’t remember from 6 years ago.  I guess I could estimate, but I’ll just start logging from here!